I dined at Morgan House on three occasions this month. I tried to dine there on four. More about that later.
Crab cakes ($12), calamari ($8), steamed mussels ($8), clam chowder, salad with goat cheese were wonderful, savory starters.
Wines-by-the-gIass — Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay — were dry and clean and delicious.
Grilled shrimp with spring risotto and peas, Chilean sea bass in fennel-orange broth with thinner-than-pencil grilled asparagus, one evening's special, roasted duck half with not overly sweet or thickened Grand Marnier sauce and wild rice salad, and lamb shanks with braised lentils and applewood smoked bacon were all worth sighing over.
The dessert list is small. Mary McGinnis's carrot cake is always tasty and rich, but it did not have enough cream cheese frosting. Housemade tiramisu tasted fresh but flat and was better the next day as a leftover. The flourless chocolate cake, however, was perfect: slightly bitter, creamy, intense and offset by thick, tart fresh raspberry sauce.
Morgan House has many waitresses and many busboys and girls but service,
Thick slices of flavorful, crusty, chewy yet airy baguette are served with a ramekin of sweet butter rosettes. Two out of three times I had to ask for bread.
Appetizers and entrees are brought to the table by multiple staff so all diners gets their meal at the same time. Very pleasing. And uncommon, locally, outside the finest restaurants — one sign that Morgan House aims for that level.
Morgan House has been in business as an inn and restaurant under many previous owners, and its restaurant has served simple, well-prepared, unambitious, generally New England cuisine. The Lorings seem to have greater aspirations. The menu and food quality, while accessible, inviting and modestly priced, is inventive and up to date in the best way: local and made from scratch.
Which make the service gaffes more regrettable.
One mid-week evening, I stopped in for dinner without reservations. The manager, instead of seating me when I arrived, had me wait while he checked to see if he had a free table.
When I was allowed in, I saw most tables set but only three with diners. I felt some discomfort as I sat down and ordered a light dinner — a glass of Pinot Grigio, steamed mussels and a dish I had enjoyed at my previous dinner, Caesar salad ($6) with calamari ($4)) and "a lot of anchovies."
My waitress returned to say she had asked for two orders of anchovies since I had said, "a lot," and that would be $4.
"For how many anchovies?"
"Six."
I cancelled the order and suggested that extra charge should have been on the menu or told to me when I ordered.
The Lorings' son Drew, manager that evening, then came to my table and introduced himself. He "just wanted to clear the air," he told me, but his manner was unpleasant. He said the $4 anchovies were a Morgan House rule. I became more upset as our discussion progressed.
"The air is not cleared," I said.
If I were not writing a review I would have paid and left without my dinner.
I called Wohrle's the next day. A 28-ounce can with 240 anchovies cost $12.45. Six anchovies cost a bit more than 31 cents. Triple that, the standard restaurant markup. The anchovy charge should be $1.
Not nice.
The next afternoon I drove over for lunch with a disabled friend after a funeral in Pittsfield. We arrived at 2:24. Morgan House Web site lists its hours as 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., but they would not serve us lunch.
I was told lunch was served only until 2; the kitchen was closed. I could see people in the tavern room. I was more than very upset.
The next afternoon, I came back reluctantly for dinner. The second dinner was even better served than the first and was delicious. Delicious.
I had a conversation with Pamela Loring about the service. She was gracious and apologized. She told me Morgan House has many repeat customers., and they average, she said, between 150 and 200 dinners a night.
So, I am of two minds about Morgan House. The food is great. The reality of the attitude ? Needs some work. It depends on how you hit it.
If you go ...
What: Morgan House Inn & Restaurant
Where: 33 Main St., Lee.
Style: Informal in an authentic old inn; white linens and china
Seating: Two dining rooms and a tavern room. Accessibility: Tavern is. Ladies' room is not.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Music: Quiet jazz in dining room Friday 7 to 10 p.m.
Credit cards: All major.
Information: (413) 243-3661. www.morganhouseinn.com.
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