The low-key street sign beside Tony's Berkshire Boats is proving no obstacle to business. Word has spread fast, drawing nightly crowds since it opened on May 4. Many are Berkshire fans of the original restaurant, happy to forgo the drive over the mountain.
The owners of the boatyard, A.J. and Diana Crea, teamed up Gary Knight, Fresco's owner and their longtime customer, to open the restaurant at the new location.
Raised in Stockbridge and Canaan, NY, Knight, 47, was the youngest chef at the Queechy Lake Inn in New York at age 19 and has worked all over the Berkshires, including at the Shaker Mill Tavern in West Stockbridge. He ran a series of his own restaurants before opening Fresco's in New Lebanon in 1995.
A hands-on owner, Knight said he plans to split his time between the two locations and hopes one day to create a chain of Fresco's in the area.
For now, he conceded, "it's a little hectic... on one of the holidays, I drove back and forth four times, just to make sure everybody at both ends was doing ok."
At 6:30 p.m. at the start of the Memorial Day weekend, my family joined a line of hopeful diners waiting outside on a glorious early summer evening. Our projected wait of 15 minutes at signing in grew long
On shady benches, we watched a parade of watercraft from Tony's get towed across Route 20 to the gas station in preparation for weekend fun. Upscale autos, pickup trucks and motorbikes cruised the lot looking for a parking space. Two spots were reserved for the steady stream of carryout customers, which included a Pittsfield Fire Engine there to pick up a bagful of dinner orders.
Inside, the 50 -eat restaurant bustled with a multigenerational clientele of families, sports fans and couples, joined later by uniformed Little League ball players.
The nautical theme of antique boating memorabilia and giant game fish matched the boatyard location, while old farm implements such as a yoke and two-handed saw, and an old fashioned penny farthing bicycle hung on the subtly painted walls. Fresco's signature model train engine ran on its track around a ceiling decorated with colorful neon bar signs and a giant flip-flop.
Bright red dishware contrasted black steel rails and exposed ductwork. Tall, comfortable chairs lined a long counter and bar, and surrounded wide square tables that were perfect for larger groups, but overlarge for parties of four and under. (One lower table has regular-height chairs for those who prefer not to perch.)
Six big-screen TVs displayed 2 games in each direction, preventing twisted necks. Crayon drawings on paper table covers were displayed on a notice board, including some rather racy in character for a family venue.
Snatches of 60s and 70s songs floated down from the speakers, while overhead fans kept temperatures comfortable despite a crowded room on a warm evening.
While some diners came for the convenience, they will almost certainly return for the food. Pizzas ($7.95 to $15.95) are cooked right on the brick in Italian wood-fired ovens, either as a red version topped with tomato sauce and whole milk mozzarella, or a white version with olive oil, garlic and cheese.
A choice of 32 toppings ranges from artichokes and anchovies to shrimp and smoked salmon. While pepperoni and mushroom are the most popular, Knight noted, "we do a great Florentine, which is spinach, bacon and tomato on a white pizza." One New Lebanon special — "Chicken Bacon Ranch" — has found a permanent home on the new menu.
"The ranch dressing is the sauce and we put bruschetta tomatoes on it with bacon and chicken. ... It tastes wonderful."
Knight reported that "Chicken Ricardo" (chicken breast, ham, mushrooms, broccoli in light cream sauce) is their best selling pasta, and baked dishes include Chicken and Veal Parmesans.
At the new location, burgers and fries have been added to the regular menu of pastas ($8.95 to $13.95), strombolis, calzones and subs.
We started with a dozen plump Dylan Wings ($8.95), which came slippery with tangy hot sauce served alongside creamy bleu cheese dip and crunchy celery. A large salad of crisp lettuce, cherry tomatoes, cucumber and olives ($7.95) arrived topped with a generous helping of fresh sliced onion.
As my personal pasta favorites from New Lebanon, Chicken Napallini and Capallini A'Scapece, were missing from the new menu (hint, hint), I tried "Fresco's Chicken & Pasta" ($10.95), a tasty combination of moist chicken breast and juicy tomatoes, with bacon pieces adding a smoky finish to the light brothy sauce.
After our long wait to be seated, the food certainly came out fast, a little too fast in the case of our Veggie and Italian Sausage pizza, which could have done with another five minutes in the oven to crisp up the rather soft, bready crust.
Rather than the more decadent chocolate silk pie, cherry cheese cake or cannollis, we ended with a delicious raspberry shortbread tart served with whipped cream ($3.95) which was easily shared and quite satisfying.
On leaving, despite the late hour, the evening was clearly not over for Frescos, as we watched a prom night stretch limo pull neatly into the lot.
Knight said he doesn't see the new restaurant adversely impacting New Lebanon, which enjoys exclusive business from weekend Vermonters as well as Pittsfield diners heading to the Speedway.
Plans are afoot to add an outdoor gazebo and bar in July which will double the seating capacity. For now, the formula for Fresco's is pretty simple: come early, come late, or enjoy the wait.
If you go ...
What: Fresco's
Where: 483 West Housatonic St., Pittsfield.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Accessible: Yes. Wheelchair ramp.
Information: (413) 499-6100. No reservations or checks accepted.
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