On a crisp fall afternoon, while his wife, Trai Duong, visited grandchildren in California, owner Luy Nguyen paused to chat on the spacious wooden deck that usually houses the summertime Vietnamese market tent. The array of handcrafted goods had been moved indoors to protect them from the quixotic Berkshire elements, joining the impressive selection of well-made, unique items in the restaurant's import store, "Out of Vietnam."
As refugees from war-torn Vietnam, Nguyen moved his young family to the U.S. in 1975 to be near relatives and run a restaurant in Hartford, Conn. A chance encounter with West Stockbridge developer Gordon Rose led to an invitation to move to the current location. There, the family found both the welcoming community they sought and the means to start their own long-serving restaurant, where Duong, as the principal chef, leads a dedicated staff of family members.
After 30 years in West Stockbridge, Nguyen said his secret for success is simple: "We are lucky, because people like the way we make the food and enjoy it with us."
He smiles as he recalls celebrities who have enjoyed his hospitality, from former BSO conductor Seiji Ozawa to Oscar-winning
Truc's is always welcoming to families, and a recent visit with husband and kids in tow found us seated in the main dining room, a warm, attractive space with screens and silky draped curtains separating more intimate dining areas.
Bamboo lights and traditional Vietnamese stringed musical instruments hung on the earth-toned, sponge-dabbed walls, while a rustic water fountain and giant ceramic vases stood grouped in a corner.
Scattered throughout the room and building were lifelike paintings by artist Le Duong of smiling women in colorful regional costumes, occupied with everyday household tasks.
Two very special, friendly guests at the table next to us were celebrating their first anniversary of emigrating to the United States from Vietnam. They held court in their highchairs beside attentive mothers, relishing fistfuls of noodles from their plates, trays, faces and everywhere else.
Appreciative of the relaxed service, we primed our palates with the signature Shrimp Summer Rolls (Goi Cuon Tom $6.95), dabbing light, refreshing and fragrant packages of shrimp, noodles, mint and coriander wrapped in chewy translucent rice sheets into a traditional bean dip. The Steamed Ravioli (Banh Cuon Thit $6.50) was unlike the usual Italian version. Instead, slippery rice noodle crepes were loosely folded over pillows of ground pork and black mushrooms, served in a savory sea of light sauce.
We braved a bowl of Hot & Sour Shrimp Soup (Canh Chua Tom $4), which turned out to be a subtle variation on the tongue-searing Chinese version, with a pair of giant shrimp floating beside slivers of chewy mushrooms in a broth dotted with oil as red as the surrounding walls.
A few stabs at out-of-stock wine selections resulted in a highly drinkable light Napa Valley Cab ($29). Nguyen made sure our water glasses stayed filled, as he reminded us of its power to "clear toxins from the body."
The aptly named Happy Pancake (Banh Xeo $18.75) was a dining delight: crisp, thin rice flour crepes folded over chicken, mushrooms, onions and bean sprouts (shrimp, pork and tofu variations are also available). They provided a gentle foil for the salty Barbecued Pork on Rice Noodles (Banh Hoi Thit Nuong $17.50) -- flattened garlic-marinated tenderloin slices, broiled and served on a thin mat of fine rice noodles accompanied by a peanut-crunchy sauce.
The Tofu with Lemongrass (Tau Hu Xao Sa Ot $14.75) from the extensive vegetarian menu was a delectable surprise (especially for the carnivorous kids). Sautéed tofu triangles blended with a juicy medley of red peppers, onion, snow peas and carrots.
With just enough room left for a taste of dessert, we shared a sweet, light froth of lemon mousse ($4) between us.
Nguyen nodded his approval as he surveyed our empty plates and satisfied smiles.
No meal at Truc's is complete without a visit to the upstairs gallery, a treasure trove of fine Vietnamese artifacts -- lacquered and painted screens, bamboo bird cages, silk lanterns, mannequins in traditional garments.
As a coda to our evening, we took note of the discreet sign to remove our shoes and visited the peaceful corner dedicated as a shrine. There, a large Buddha sat in serene meditation atop an altar, flanked by standing attendant statues, one young, one old, bringing peace and good fortune to a most worthy establishment.
If you go ...
What: Truc Orient Express
Where: 3 Harris St., West Stockbridge
Winter hours: open for dinner 5-9 p.m. daily, except Tuesdays
Handicapped accessible: Yes.
Information: (413) 232-4204.
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