GREAT BARRINGTON

Falling in love with the Berkshires is an old story. Angel and Toni Espinoza, proprietors of the new Mexican restaurant Xicohtencatl on Route 7, have now joined the rest of us who call these green mountains home.

Their passion is cooking and they bring with them a culinary heritage from Mexico that fills a void in this area.

With a sunflower bright coat of yellow paint and a welcoming wrap-around porch, Xicohtencatl, formerly Hudson's, is serving authentic Mexican fare: flautas de pollo, frijoles con queso and mole poblano to name but a few.

And what could be more pleasant than sitting on a porch sipping fresh fruit margaritas on a hot summer day?

Granted you might have trouble finding this particular porch if you don't remember the name, but once you do, you won't be disappointed.

Risking the label of xenophobic, may I say that I'm not quite sure WHY one would give a name to a restaurant that no one can pronounce or spell. Determined to find it, I asked someone where the new Mexican restaurant that begins with an "X" is located and they not only knew it, but also, thanks to their excellent directions, I found my way.

By the way, it's

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pronounced "shi-ko-ten-cat."

Xicohtencatl was a great warrior prince and protector of Tlax-cala, the chef /owner's homeland province in Mexico.

Fresh squeezed lime juice makes their "Bella Margarita" an excellent and potent way to start the evening. Two or three of these and you can call it a day. Just give your Jacob's Pillow tickets to the waiter!

One Bella and one fresh fruit sangria was our limit.

Salsa and chips replace the traditional bread basket and butter.

Baked on the premises, the chips were particularly good -- crisp and fresh and excellent as an accompaniment to the fresh salsa made with chunks of tomato, onion and cilantro. The para comenzar (to start) menu offers guacamole de Xicoh, which has ample bite and flavor and is of the smooth variety.

Xicohtencatl opened its doors just a little more than a month ago -- June 16 to be precise. It seems that they hit the tarmac running and don't need much publicity. A space on the porch is hard to come by -- especially early evening before the theater and dance crowd disappear to their respective shows. There are still kinks to be worked out but on each of our visits we had some really excellent food and some not so.

Mostly everything fell on the plus side -- especially the chilies rellenos de espinaca; two plump fresh poblano chilies, roasted and stuffed with spinach and cheese and dressed with a pink salsa and cream. Rating? Two and half chiles in heat and three stars for taste.

Camarones machos was the table favorite appetizer; a generous portion of four jumbo shrimp sauted with butter, lime and a touch of jalapeno.

You can get a spicy, whole red snapper cooked on the grill and seasoned with sea salt, garlic and epazote. The latter is a pungent, wild herb with a strong flavor similar to cilantro and, might I add, an acquired taste.

A neighboring diner gave ample praise to the embueltos that she had ordered. These are fresh tortillas dipped in mole poblano, stuffed with shredded chicken, and then garnished with onions and feta and topped with crema fresca.

When I mentioned to co-owner Toni Bergins Espinoza that the mole poblano was just too spicy-hot to eat, she explained that her chef/owner/husband Angel, (pronounced An-hel), did not make it that particular night.

She went on to say that he makes "the most amazing mole in the world," a skill which he attributes to his mother.

Mole, a Mexican specialty, is a variation of the Nahuatl word, molli, meaning concoction. It's a rich dark spicy sauce (usually served over chicken) blending onions, garlic, several varieties of chiles, ground seeds (sesame, pumpkin), nuts (as in chef An-gel's version), and chocolate -- the secret ingredient that adds substance and richness.

In Mexico, mole even has its own holiday on which everyone in a village will make a version.

Variety in a small village is one thing but a restaurant needs to know that whoever comes up with the winning version can pass it on to all the sous chefs.

A plating consultant would also be a welcome addition to the crew. The grilled, whole red snapper sitting alone on the plate needs some company.

This is also true for the wild crepes in a light cream sauce.

Many dishes are served with homemade tortillas, beans and in my opinion, a boring rice speckled with chopped vegetables that add more color than taste.

Aside from a strange version of shrimp cocktail (served with saltines?) and a bland sopa de tortilla, I enjoyed everything.

On the whole, Angel Espinoza is a talented, focused chef who has put together an ambitious menu that belies the culinary stereotype of nachos and quesadillas as typical of Mexican cuisine. The staff is extremely friendly and accommodating and can explain all the various intricacies of Mexican cooking.

If sugar soothes the ache you get from eating hot, spicy foods, then dessert is a must. The flan de rum y kahlua is the chef's specialty and, if you can have them throw on a ball of their mango ice cream, life would be almost perfect.

To quote their menu: "Xicoh-tencatl: tradition Mexicana, cocina con stilo y elegancia . . . buen provecho."

Translation -- Xicohtencatl: Mexican tradition, cooked with style and elegance ... For your well being.


Restaurant Review

Xicohtencatl, 50 Stockbridge Road, Great Barrington; Tel. (413) 528-2002.

Style: Authentic Mexican

Dress: Casual

Prices: Dinners -- To start: $5 - $9; main dishes: $11-$21; desserts: $5 - $8.50. Brunch (Saturday and Sunday): $4 - $8.

Smoking: No smoking

Hours: 5 - 10 p.m. (later on weekends)

Reservations: None required

Credit cards: All major

Handicapped accessible

Specials: Lunch service is being planned. Children's menu available. Call about catering.

July 30, 2003