LENOX -- Sinking a 20-foot putt, getting the brass ring while riding on a carousel and finishing the Sunday Times crossword puzzle are all herculean tasks equal to getting a week-end reservation at Bistro Zinc.

In January of 1999, owners Jason Macioge and Charlie Schulze opened the doors to their new Lenox restaurant in the former Church street home of the Crosby Catering company.

I first heard about Zinc as being a destination place for the Tanglewood crowd when I was writing a piece for The Eagle this past summer. At the time, I was unable to get a last minute reservation and remembered on later occasions to call two weeks in advance to get a table.

Conclusion: It is indeed a happening place and one that's worth waiting for.

You might describe this enterprise as a two-family business in that almost everybody in the families is involved. Frank Macioge, the architect father of Jason, did the extraordinary design; mother Judith Gordon (Macioge) creates the simple and elegant floral pieces; Carole Schulze (wife of Charlie) is responsible for many of the stunning photographs on the wall in the bar area.

The theme of the restaurant is of course, "bistro," with white butcher's paper covering the tables,

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warm yellow lighting (not dulled by cigarette smoke as you will find in a Parisian bistro), and tables placed close to one another.

It is almost impossible to ignore the conversation at the adjoining tables and in each of my sojourns to Bistro Zinc, I've made a set of new best friends.

If you're a young single female, the professional and prompt service by the six foot plus adorable waiters might be reason enough to venture forth to 56 Church St.

The traditional French baguette is replaced by a far superior loaf of thick crusted French country bread from the Rockhill Farm bakery in Saratoga, N.Y.

On my first visit here, this bread gave new meaning to the word, crusty; it might have bordered on dangerous for some of the senior crowd dining there that evening.

However, a second visit had me asking the waiter if I could buy a loaf to bring home.

A ramekin of olives seems to have replaced the less traditional plate of olive oil which replaced the more common dish of butter. I prefer the latter and could have made a meal of their bread and butter alone.

For appetizers, the Mussels Mariniere is prepared in a straight forward French manner with butter, shallots, white wine and a handful of fresh herbs. The mussels were plump and juicy and the sauce worthy of sopping up with any of the aforementioned bread.

The calamari was lightly breaded and fried and went well with the side watercress salad which had a cider vinaigrette dressing and was tossed with endive, apples, toasted walnuts and blue cheese.

Our "new best friend" sitting at the table next to us, was oohing over the Vietnamese pork or vegetarian spring rolls while my husband and I shared the crab cake entrée as an appetizer. The crab cakes, served over a bed of fried onions, couldn't have been better -- 99 percent fresh crab meat and 1 percent fresh herbs and flavor.

For some reason, people hear the word "bistro", and they think, "steak and pommes frites." Should you be one of those diners, you won't be disappointed.

One friend thought the fries were the best he'd ever had, but I suggest going another route. I prefer to ask the waiter what the signature dish is or what he thinks is the best on the menu and I order accordingly. This method led me to the halibut on a bed of freshly harvested bok choy in a Vietnamese sauce and sprinkled with deep fried slivers of ginger. It was heavenly.

A must is the Pan Seared Provencal Scallops: four perfectly browned succulent scallops served on a bed of Israeli couscous with toasted bread crumbs, scallions and wedges of fresh lemons.

Rob Ferris is the talented 32 year old in the kitchen who makes all this happen.

Originally, from Pittsfield, he studied at the Culinary Institute of America where one learns, among others, classic French cooking. He learned his lesson well and after practicing his craft at various restaurants, he returned to the Berkshires.

Before Zinc was launched, Rob and Jim Bensen, the general manager and man behind the all French wine list, went to Lyon on a "bistro tour" and "stuffed themselves for a week straight." (It's a tough job, right?)

Their trip was a success. Chef Ferris takes three dabs of classic French, crosses it with one dab eclectic and comes up with a unique style and menu.

For instance he can't make enough of his lobster macaroni and cheese.

"They're coming back for more" he added when I grimaced slightly.

This fall and winter you can expect to see cassoulet, boullabaisse, coq au vin, duck shepherd's pie and, perhaps, a braised lamb shank.

Dave Fourchette, the pastry chef, makes a mean créme brulee and the lemon mousse on a cookie crust sprinkled with fresh raspberries and dribbled with coulis is a perfect way to end a wonderful meal.

Bistro means a small, unpretentious European-style restaurant where space is a sacred commodity.

Zinc means "bar" in French slang. And "cher" means expensive, in any language.

Everything on the menu at Bistro Zinc is a la carte: appetizers, sides, salads, entrees and desserts but it's all excellent. The prices do not seem to keep anyone away.

This is the hottest ticket in town.

Oct. 18, 2000