NEW LEBANON, N.Y. -- The little strip of Route 20 and 22 that makes up this town's commercial center has been home to a wide range of eateries. Some notables, like Lenny's, Shuji's and Xanadu, have come and gone.

Others, such as The Pillars, Fresco's, and the Hitchingpost Café still cater to locals and passers-through.

Mario's Restaurant has been a fixture in their midst since 1963, when the Soldato family, headed by father Mario, erected the modest building in what had been a cornfield. Those were the days when Italian fare was still considered pretty exotic and the wax-dripped Chianti bottle was iconic of a romantic night out. The food tended toward fried seafoods, staple pastas and veal cutlets.

Now, 40 years later, and in the hands of a second generation -- sisters Kathy and Diane managing the front and brother Michael reigning in the kitchen -- the restaurant has been made over into a far more ambitious and appealing dining destination. One side features a large bar with a cozy niche of couches and a clutch of café tables, the other is a large open room, freshly painted in russet and sage tones, and set with linen-covered tables, crystal candle lights and fresh carnations.

The large stone hearth that

Advertisement
divides the two rooms hints of comfort for the aprés-ski crowd en route home from Jiminy Peak and points north. However, as we arrived on one of these first balmy spring nights, the absence of fire was a cause to celebrate.

Our table had, if we lifted our eyes past the road, a grand view of Mount Lebanon, its Shaker gray just tinged with the palest green promise of spring buds. Diners on the far side of the room could contemplate a vista of fields and distant trees. These were pleasant surroundings, except for the distraction, from where I sat, of a lottery machine at the bar, which flashed a steady stream of messages about mounting millions.

Service was prompt and courteous. While we sipped drinks, we were helped to the delightfully unexpected treat of fresh popovers, light and custardy on the inside and crisp on the out. Bread, olive oil and butter appeared, too, along with a complimentary palate-teaser of white beans in spicy dressing. All this before we had even placed our order.

My husband, Rod, picked a winner with a specialty of the spring menu -- a fan of perfectly grilled asparagus, with sliced tomatoes and shavings of firm ricotta. ($7.95) An intense drizzle of salsa verde, made with parsley, garlic, capers, olive oil and a whiff of balsamic vinegar, pulled it all together. The only improvement that one might have wished for was a totally ripe, end-of-season tomato.

I indulged in Lobster Ravioli ($7.50) made in Great Barrington, Mass., by the appropriately named Stellar Pasta. Four pillows filled with lobster were sauced in the chef's own lush reduction of lobster stock and cream and garnished with fronds of dill and a tiny dice of tomato. It was both delicate and rich, but the portion was, rightly, sparing enough not to overwhelm the appetite.

A plate of fresh field greens came next, as preface to dinner, at no additional charge. It made a perfect transition between courses, and I reflected on how many restaurants have replaced the inclusion of a salad with each entrée with pricey a la carte salads, which, perhaps to justify the expense, are often too large to eat comfortably. This salad was just right, especially with a couple of grinds from the oversized pepper mill.

My daughter, as is her wont, zeroed in on the pasta list, selecting Linguini with Clam Sauce ($15.95). This was not the usual chopped clam treatment, but was a plentiful bowl of pasta, sauced with a buttery, parsley-flecked, clam broth and ringed with 10 whole steamed clams. A tiny clam fork and a bowl for shells were thoughtfully provided, and the waitress was unstinting with her grater of fresh parmesan.

Clara thoroughly enjoyed bathing first the clams and then pieces of bread in the extra juices.

Rod chose Shrimp Scampi ($17.95), which also proved a twist on the traditional. The sautéed shrimp, chaperoned by a single clam, were served over angel hair pasta that glistened with sauce -- not the expected heft of garlic and olive oil, but flavorful, especially with a spritz of lemon.

Having lulled my seafood craving with my appetizer (and counting on a few snitches from my companions), I opted for chicken as a main course. The Phyllo-Wrapped Breast of Chicken ($17.95) featured two tidy triangular packets of flaky pastry encasing wedges of roasted chicken paired with sliced portabella mushroom and a layer of lightly caramelized leek puree.

The packets rested on a mound of scallion mashed potatoes, flanked with carrots and sauteed spinach. I didn't care for the way the underside of the pastry turned mushy, and the vegetables were a trifle too salty, but the mix of flavors on the plate was straightforward and pleasing.

My husband drew the line at dessert, but my daughter and I threw caution to the winds and, instead of sharing, ordered separately. Her Tartufo ($5) was an extravagant fist-sized ball of chocolate and vanilla ice creams wrapped around a cherry center and coated in chocolate. It was sliced open and served on raspberry sauce streaked with custard. The raspberry coulis was very good -- sweetened puréed berries, deepened with a little wine -- and I borrowed a couple of spoonfuls as counterpoint to my Coconut Sorbet ($5.50), which came in three scoops -- two too many! A demitasse of espresso was essential antidote to the sweetness.

Later, when I talked with some of the family, it was clear that part of what makes the place tick is that it is a labor of love.

Although Mario Soldato died last year, his vision continues with his children not only keeping it going, but improving on what their parents started.

His wife has retired, but, according to Michael Soldato, still likes to go to local farms to pick fresh strawberries for June shortcake specials.

Michael himself put in youthful hours washing dishes before becoming chef. Another sister runs a bed-and-breakfast next door. There is a sense of dedication and collaboration to it all that comes out in the genial atmosphere, the choice of local purveyors, the attention to detail.

It translates to the waitress who told us proudly she'd been there seven years and is reflected in the open-hearted way that Michael stopped in mid-sentence to share the limelight: "You gotta mention my sous chef, Mario Aulisio. I couldn't do without him."


Restaurant Review

Mario's Restaurant, Route 20 & Route 22, New Lebanon, NY 12125 (518) 794-9495

Style: Italian American hybrid

Dress: Casual to dressy

Hours: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 4 to 9:30; Friday and Saturday 4 to 10; Sun. noon to 9. Closed Tuesday.

Prices: Appetizers and salads: $5.95 to $10.95; Entrees: $15.50 to $25; Desserts: $4.50 to $6.

Liquor: Full bar

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Accepted

Specials: Seasonal menu changes

April 23, 2003