Pittsfield: Kneebone's

PITTSFIELD -- Every once in a while you walk into a restaurant and can feel its excitement and energy.

The imprinted golf shirts sold at the desk advertising the newly opened Kneebone's Steakhouse and the waiting line snaking around its overflowing bar are all pretty good indicators that this restaurant is here to stay.

Owner Kelly Genzabella certainly hopes so, as do many Allendalians, Pittsfielders and other fans from surrounding towns.

Kneebone's took over the space formerly occupied by a personal favorite, Truffles & Such, in the heart of the Allendale Shopping Center.

Steak and BBQ ribs are the mainstay of its menu, replacing what I call the "foie gras" cuisine of its predecessor.

"I wanted to create something low-key and classic to fit in better with the needs of the people here" said Genzabella.

While

Truffles & Such was fine dining and rather pricey, Kneebone's is good food, affordable and, the minute you're seated, homey.

Comfortable leather banquettes line the wooden booths, while handsome mahogany chairs complete the standing tables.

The walls are adorned with rolling pins, kitchen paraphernalia and hand-dipped candles. A wooden rooster holds court over the main dining area.

The bar is a "happening" scene, and you can expect to spend some time there, since a wait is almost inevitable.

The night we were there it seemed as if the restaurant was giving away daiquiris. Everywhere you looked, you could see slightly glassy eyes peering out over the rims of those notable, triangular-shaped glasses.

We decided to begin our meal at the bar, rather than filling up on salty bar snacks designed to keep you coming back for more drinks, but which seem to ruin your appetite. The grilled and seasoned large shrimp appetizer was served with an excellent homemade rémoulade sauce that doubled as a dip for the crusty loaf of bread.

The plump and juicy crustaceans were soon devoured and, just as a bowl of Kneebone's Chowder appeared on the waitress's tray, we were escorted to our table.

The chowder was rich and creamy, loaded with roasted corn, shrimp and lobster, but needed a little of the seasoning that so amply flavored the grilled shrimp.

The menu is dotted with stars indicating signature dishes. The aforementioned shrimp and something called "cheese fries" represented the star list for the appetizers. Cheese fries are topped with Monterey jack and shredded bacon.

This is what I call pure "pub grub," good, greasy and bad for you. Though, I must admit, not much was left on the plate.

For an entrée, you can have steak, steak and more steak.

Don't eat red meat? Try the chicken, ribs, salmon, veal or swordfish. There's one selection of each, as well as ample pasta dishes.

I kept to the star list and had the 12-ounce Kneebone's signature sirloin, which is offered three ways: house seasoned and grilled, Louisiana style, or marinated in Jim Beam whiskey, which the restaurant calls "Western Style."

I like to keep my whiskey and steak separate, so I chose the first offering: just plain grilled.

The steak was tender and prepared exactly as I had ordered: medium rare. Kudos to Chef Jason Murphy, formerly of Appletree Inn in Lenox, for getting it right on a busy night at this large restaurant.

The Porterhouse (18 ounces), and the most expensive item on the menu at $19.99, was less successful. It was a thin slab of meat that belied its name.

Porterhouse is cut from the large end of the short loin, which is the tenderest cut of the meat as well as one of the best and most expensive. Unfortunately, only the latter was true.

If you like BBQ, the tangy barbecue on the baby-back ribs was "finger lickin' good" and not overly sweet.

Combos are available offering pairings of chicken, shrimp, beef and baby-back ribs, but they tend to be a little skimpy compared with the regular entrées.

Creamed spinach, portabello mushrooms, redolent garlic-mashed potatoes and crispy french fries are some of the sides offered a la carte.

A mini loaf of bread and homemade salsa made with chopped sun-dried tomatoes quickly disappeared from each table.

"Our own creation to fit the season, the weather or just our own good mood" is what you'll see on the dessert menu.

Try the mousse or cheesecake but skip the misnamed orange and dried cranberry apple crisp. The crisp seemed to be missing and the vanilla ice cream on top was small consolation.

Kneebone's Steakhouse is a work in progress and is off to an incredible start. The service was excellent, the food better than good, and the ambience A-plus.

Feb. 21, 2001