Stephanie Konle and Andrew Hasse have drinks as they wait at a table outside of the Stagecoach Inn & Tavern last Friday night. The two New Yorkers were visiting the area scouting movie locations.

SHEFFIELD

One of my favorite things about reading 19th-century novels is the description of leisurely journeys made in stages, that is, requiring frequent stops to change or rest the horses at hospitable roadhouses where the travelers also find refreshment and good cheer.

Compared with the franchised, plastic stops on modern highways, these accommodations seem havens of rustic civility.

The restaurant at the Race Brook Lodge harks to earlier times both in its authentic building and its warm but unfussy welcome.

From Great Barrington, you dogleg through South Egremont and travel south on Route 41 about eight miles along what is arguably one of the lovelier stretches of road in the county.

Just past

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the Berkshire School campus you come upon the Stagecoach Tavern, marked by an old sign that says Stagecoach Hill Inn. The difference in name can give you pause, but it is indeed the right place, a rambling brick and board building in front of a large lodge.

The 18th-century farmhouse of the John Race family became the Giles Andrews Tavern in 1829. It has seen many owners and changes over time, including a heyday in the 1970s when it became a favorite haunt for auto-racing enthusiasts up from Lime Rock Park in Connecticut.

Race Brook Lodge owners David Rothstein and Allegra Graham bought the place three years ago as a dining place to complement their hostelry. They redid the décor, discarding leftover racing paraphernalia and stagecoach-themed memorabilia in favor of more authentic country comfort.

Double fireplaces, lantern- and candlelight, and rich fabrics in soft rusts and celadon greens set off the dark wood of the beams and the pale stucco walls. Bare wood tables and long banquettes bespeak the casual intent, while framed landscapes, flowers, rugs and an occasional chair with a little cushion add homey grace.

Dan and Susan Smith, chef/owners of Egremont restaurant John Andrew's came on board last year to manage the tavern, bringing their pastry chef, Sarah Dibben, to run the kitchen. In the tavern they serve simpler, less pricey fare than their more upscale base restaurant -- but they have kept the emphasis on high-quality ingredients, provided locally when possible.

The place was nearly packed the Friday night we arrived -- there can be a wait for tables during the busier hours -- but the hostess accommodated our party of five at a banquette near the bar. Short of reserving the charming private dining room -- which takes parties of six to 12 -- there is little chance of finding a quiet corner to talk. The atmosphere is more convivial hubbub than quiet tête-â-tête, and service is friendly but brisk as the waitresses work the busy room.

We started with wine and were pleased to find, alongside a good number of bottles, some nine vintages offered by the glass -- including a sparkler -- ranging in price from $4 to $7.75.

Sharing appetizers is an advantage of a larger group. Perhaps spurred by the lightness of the early spring night, we were in a seafood mood, which netted us a plentiful catch of mussels and calamari ($9, each dish).

The mussels were small-bodied, but came in a delicious wash of herb-strewn, salty broth.

The squid were fried just short of golden and we appreciated having the crackly clusters of tentacles included -- not just the tidy little rings one often gets. They came with what was basically a thick tartar sauce zinged up with some red pepper.

A generous salad of fresh greens ($8) was dressed lightly, but accessorized boldly with hefty anchovies and olives.

For dinner, one of our party, Marc, chose the Friday night special -- crispy roast duck ($22). For sides -- the diner gets to plan his own plate -- he opted for grilled asparagus and roasted mushrooms. The vegetables were perfect, the duck was crispy as promised but wanted a bit more red-wine sauce, especially as it was just a tad dry under the skin.

Two others at our table, Rod and Eileen, both opted for salmon ($19), a 4-inch-square, center cut fillet, competently grilled and basted with soy and maple. Tender spinach, delicately creamed was the standout of their accompaniments.

My seafood stew with fennel ($22) was a haul of shrimp, scallops, mussels and chunks of salmon and cod bathed in broth scented with the faintly licorice taste of fennel. The seafood was lush, but the overall dish rather mild; and I fantasized about an invigorating breeze of garlicky Provençal rouille as counterpoint.

My daughter, Clara, loved her special of the day, orechiette with rock shrimp and cherry tomatoes ($17). The little ear-shaped pasta was a perfect foil for the toothsome crustaceans and the soft warmth of the tomatoes, and a sound, olive-oil based sauce pulled it all together.

Two desserts proved plenty for the five of us. There were four choices, which, I'm told, vary from day to day.

Coconut cake with mango and pineapple ($7) was a medley of tropical flavors, the somewhat heavy cake offset by cool fruits and a pouf of cream.

Nobody was sorry that I overrode the more traditional pecan pie and cinnamon bread pudding in favor of the wild card, an Italian specialty called Budino ($6). Gidden's training as a pastry chef displayed itself in this rich chocolate terrine, which takes its name from the Italian word for pudding.

Served in a thick slab, it was unctuous with chocolate, eggs, butter and coffee, and it caressed the mouth, a worthy match for the most depraved chocolate cravings.

A flirt of tangy grapefruit freshened the senses and prevented a fall into absolute chocolate oblivion.

The coffee, too, deserved special mention, it was a an excellent brew, brought to table in glass pression carafes,

With plenty for a second cup all around, it capped the evening with a flourish. All was well that ended well, as we headed back out for the leg home.


    Restaurant Review

    Stagecoach Tavern

      864 Undermountain Road
      Sheffield
      (413) 229-8585

    Style: Cozy tavern ambience; relaxed, lighter fare

    Dress: Casual

    Noise: Very noisy

    Hours: Thursday 5 to 9; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10.

    Prices: Appetizers and salads: $5 to $9; Entrees: $10 to $22; Desserts: $5 to $7.

    Liquor: Full bar, good selection of wines by the glass

    Credit cards: Mastercard and Visa

    Reservations: Parties of six or more, or for the private dining room

    Accessibility: Ramp in back, accessible bathroom

    Specials: Entire inn can be rented for special events, weddings