Mezze is back and it's better than ever. After a fire in the summer of 2001, having just completed a lovely outdoor dining deck overlooking the Green River, Mezze closed its doors and the dining Berkshire public lost a great favorite, not only for pre-theater dining but as a destination spot for all.

When the Main Street Cafe, a longtime Williamstown mainstay, closed, Mezze moved into its larger space, making it quite a bit easier to get a reservation for dinner.

The newly designed space is simple, elegant and whimsical. When you enter, a wall of vertically sliced antique pine trees greet you, and an attractive hostess will escort you to your table.

In the main dining room, weight-bearing columns are dressed with what looks like split birch, reminiscent of Ansel Adam's birch tree photograph except the latter was one-dimensional. The whole effect is charming rather than kitschy.

The bare brick wall on one side of the room gives the space a warm country feeling while the other walls are painted white and adorned with what I call molecular art. You'll just have to go to see what I mean.

Diners care about restaurant themes and decor only when the food on their plate is equal to their surroundings. Design

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alone does not a dinner make and Nancy Thomas, owner and restaurateur (she opened Eleven last year at Mass Moca) has done a superb job on the menu, with the help of chef Tod Clements (formerly at Gramercy Tavern and Veritas in New York City and most recently at the Green Street Tavern in Northampton.)

Thomas is of Moroccan-Greek descent and the name Mezze can be attributed to her maternal culinary heritage. Mezze is the Arabic word for the tradition of sharing lots of little appetizers, like dim sum, or tapas, before a meal or in some cases, instead of.

Mezze's menu borrows from many geographical traditions, not strictly Moroccan.

The marinated hamachi with jicama, basil oil, frisee and candied ginger has an Asian component. Though all appetizers were excellent, this was my favorite. Hamachi is the Japanese name for young yellowtail, and is served ceviche style, i.e. a raw fish marinated in citrus, usually lime. The acid actually "cooks" the fish, firming the flesh and turning it opaque. This sparse ly garnished "filet" is light and delicate and a perfect balance of color, flavor, richness and simplicity.

Peekytoe crab with tomato water, avocado and pickled cucumber is a nod to California (despite its East Coast heritage) cuisine with its emphasis on healthy and high food. Peekytoe -- the name comes from "picked toe," pronounced as two syllables in Maine, its home -- was a throwaway byproduct of lobster fishing before a brilliant marketing move changed their name to "peekytoes" around 1997 (also known as bay crab and rock crab). Regardless of its pedigree, this appetizer is subtle and filled with delicate flavors that are enhanced when accompanied by a fruity white wine, like Mezze's Charles Schleret Alsatian Riesling.

The Mezze fans of yore will be happy to know that the Mezze salad is still on the menu -- a plate of olives, Greek feta, Serrano ham, cucumber salad and Spanish white anchovies. Barring the anchovies (about the only food I won't eat), it's excellent. Chef Clements uses only the finest ingredients, which is essential to make this dish such a success.

Simple is the word that comes to mind to describe the Mezze menu -- it doesn't take long to peruse the selections. There are usually a few fish entrees, one chicken, two meat and a pasta. No complaints -- if they're done well, and you throw in some specials, you really don't need more.

The roasted halibut with summer squash, oyster mushrooms, tarragon and sherry vinaigrette is as good as it is beautifully plated. A decent portion of fish is accompanied by perfectly cooked vegetables sitting in a herb-infused sauce. Concerned about getting Omega-3 fatty acids? Try the grilled salmon with Vidalia onions, stewed okra and tomatoes, basil and salmon roe.

Tired of fish? Have the beef tenderloin with string beans and potato puree in a balsamic onion reduction. It is a generous and tender portion of meat that is well flavored, but not enough to overpower the essence of the beef itself.

The Moroccan influence creeps back in with the grilled leg of lamb with eggplant puree, sweet peppers, authentic Provencal picholine olives, mint and preserved lemon. The lamb, good enough to stand by itself, is paired with the traditional ethnic flavors of the Mediterranean like mint and eggplant.

As a devoted fan of the Williamstown Theatre Festival, I have been back to Mezze several times and have tried everything on the menu. If you're not keen to eat out that often, it offers a tasting menu (requires the participation of the entire table) that samples most of the selections. You will be treated to a globally inspired dinner.

Like models in a parade of the latest Benetton fashions the wait staff is brightly clad in pink, blue, yellow or red. They are as colorful as they are professional. In the true tradition of NYC restaurateur Danny Meyers, your napkin will be refolded if you leave the table, other than to depart.

Dinner is a leisurely affair. However, if you are in a hurry, as many are, then just inform your server rather than threaten him with bodily harm, as one man did just prior to our arrival, and he or she will see that you get out in time for the theater.

Ecce Pane supplies the crusty rolls (one at a time) and a plate of Divina extra virgin olive oil is provided for dunking. I miss the herbed olive oil of Mezze I.

Was there ever a time when you didn't find some version of Jean George's chocolate soufflé cake on a menu? I'm not complaining. Mezze's version with caramel and coffee ice cream is just sinful enough.

Skip the coconut tapioca soup with sorbet unless you're feeling adventurous and don't hesitate to order the Mezze cookies, although I felt they were a bit skimpy.

My only beef with the new Mezze is that it no longer serves Cappuccino, which for me is a dessert when I have the willpower to resist ordering one. I like the light sweet cinnamon froth and I pretend I'm sitting in a cafe somewhere in the world dreaming of consuming some death by dessert concoction.

Fran Liebowitz said, "If you're going to America, bring your own food." Clearly she is wrong. If you're going to Mezze, bring your appetite.


Restaurant Review

Mezze Bistro & Bar, 84 Water St., Williamstown, MA 01267 Tel. (413) 458-0123

Style: American Bistro

Dress: Casual

Prices: First courses: $6 to $12; En trees: $19 to $24; Desserts: $6

Smoking: No smoking

Hours: Dinner only: Tuesday through Sa turday, 5 to 10; Sunday and Mon, 5 to 9.

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Recommended. For pre-theater: 5 to 6 p.m. suggested

Handicapped accessible

July 24, 2002