Lenox: Prime time

Prime Steakhouse & Bar in Lenox is the newest restaurant in Lenox. Or is it? Although much has changed -- including a totally revamped interior and a menu-shift toward beef -- enough menu staples remain from its heritage as Antonio's to please former regulars, and the welcome is still warm as another generation of the Gallo family takes over.

Gennaro "Jerry" Gallo, who has been involved in his family's restaurant since childhood and has managed it for the past seven years, said that it wasn't that Antonio's wasn't doing well. It had a loyal following. But when he took it over, he wanted to update it to suit himself. At 25 years old, he wanted something more urban and stylish.

The outside retains its old New England clapboard and shutters look, although a bevy of umbrella tables beckons from a patio space extending to the neighboring gallery.

Inside, Gallo's vision has been realized in curves of black tile, polished wood, frosted and crackled glass. Hip little track lights add shine. A hot shade of lipstick red leather and a few colorful paintings add splash. It's bold, but not edgy -- the kind of setting that makes younger people feel worldly and older ones feel younger.

The bar is a focal point, occupying one whole side of the room, and its glittering bottles and large-screen televisions promise buzz and entertainment.

The center of the space is partially walled off with large, half-moon-shaped booths. Sliding panels can turn these into a private dining area.

We eyed their relative seclusion, envying the quiet coziness inside, but they were all reserved. It was still too chilly to eat outdoors, although the patio space should be a great draw as the summer heats up. So, we settled in at one of the tables lining the opposite side of the room from the bar.

The service staff was courteous and unflappable. When my husband's water glass tipped on the gap between two tables, our waitress arrived, towel at the ready, almost before the water hit the floor.

When, a few minutes later, a glass was overturned at a neighboring table, their waitress had it cleaned up almost before we could shoot that couple a commiserating glance. And throughout the evening, we were attended comfortably, efficiently and without pressure.

Options for starters leaned toward seafood -- calamari, clams, shrimp mussels -- and specialty salads, including one based on fresh mozzarella.

My daughter and I shared a plate of Rhode Island steamers ($12). The clams were large and luscious, giving off appealing whiffs of wine and brine as they dove into the melted butter. No frills, but very good and plenty to share.

My husband took pleasure in defying the leafy mescluns that rule the salad world as he tucked into the Steakhouse wedge ($9). He pronounced the crunch of the iceberg lettuce refreshing, and savored the rich blue cheese dressing and crumbles of crispy bacon. This is clearly a case of a throwback making a comeback, and it kind of goes with the steakhouse territory.

When my companions ordered gnocchi and shrimp, I saw my course clearly charted. Someone had to be the beef-eater and I was glad that it had to be me. I deliberated over the five beefsteak offerings, ranging from 12 ounces of skirt steak for a modest $18 to a whopping pound plus of New York strip for $38. I finally chose the Flat Iron ($24), which was described as "a tender cut of beef second only to the filet mignon."

It would be telling to see whether the less pricey cut would satisfy. And it did. The large slab of meat was thick and juicy, cooked exactly to the rare side of medium rare that I'd requested. It was seasoned with a spicy rub ? which Gallo says is a family secret.

A choice of sauces was offered, and, my curiosity piqued by the nomenclature, I ordered "bleu cheese demi glaze." An unprepossessing cheesy concoction with a few wilted onions, it fortunately came on the side -- and it stayed there.

A small salad and slightly grainy garlic mashed potatoes accompanied the meal, but the choice, well-aged meat was clearly where the kitchen's attention was focused.

Similarly, the grilled shrimp ($25) was all about the seafood, with the tag-along pilaf just filling out the plate. The plump shellfish were butterflied and char-broiled to perfection. Tastes of smoke and surf stirred up images of a driftwood fire at the beach.

I was assured that the gnocchi ($19) were handmade from an old family recipe but my husband found these little cheese and potato dumplings disappointingly glutinous in texture. Their tasty marinara sauce did more credit to the handed-down recipe file.

Dessert offerings change from night to night, including cheesecake, cannoli, a tuxedo chocolate-mousse cake, lemon sorbets and more.

Ours, a caramel apple tart with vanilla ice cream and a rather thick-walled cannoli, filled the bill for a sweet ending, but did not astound.

Very good espresso made a pleasant finish to the meal; one of the house collection of grappas might have been another great ending, but we forewent that indulgence.

We left feeling that in the transformation of Antonio's to Prime, Lenox has lost an old chum, but gained a higher-visibility draw for steak-lovers, visitors, see-and-be-seeners, and those who are looking for a late-night spot to meet and drink.

With the promise of lunches, occasional dance nights, outdoor dining, the place may offer more things to more people. And because the younger Gallo seems determined to bolster his chic new venue with time-honored warmth, straight-shooting food and good service, his rendition of the restaurant is likely to earn its own generation of regulars.

Restaurant Review

Prime Steakhouse & Bar, 15 Franklin St., Lenox. Tel. (413) 637-2998

Style: Upscale beef and bar, down-home Italian hospitality

Dress: Casual to stylish

Noise: Fairly noisy indoors, perhaps less so in partially enclosed booths

Hours: Dinner: 5 to 10; Bar open until 1 as of July.; Lunch hours planned

Prices: Appetizers and salads: $8 to $13; Entrees: mostly in the $17 to $30 range; Desserts: $6 to $8.

Liquor: Full bar, substantial wine list

Credit cards: Mastercard, Visa, American Express

Reservations: Advisable, especially in summer or for booths

Accessibility: Ramps and bathrooms, parking in rear

Specials: Outdoor dining in season; dance nights planned