The Great American Hot dog and Hamburger Company opened in Great Barrington in May.
Thursday, June 18
GREAT BARRINGTON -- For a man opening a tiny roadside burger shack, owner Gene Faul has some big goals.

"I read an article about the 10 best burgers in America, and I wanted to get on that list," said Faul. "I've read lots of books about who's got the best hot dog in America, the Food Channel guy's book about drive-ins and dives. I'm fairly knowledgeable about the goal and see no reason why we can't have something like that."

Faul read a Wall Street Journal article that said America's best hot dog came from a small trailer in Boston and decided to open The Great American Hot Dog and Hamburger Company as a small shack in Great Barrington.

"I really got inspired by Danny Meyer in New York, the owner of Gramercy Tavern," Faul said. "He opened the Shake Shack in a park, and I'd heard about it. He presented at a festival there, so I got to talk with him. When I Visited Shake Shack in June, there was a line over an hour long of people wanting a burger or a dog. I said dang it, if he can do it, so can I. We could do something like that here; why not?"

Faul is full of ideas to increase the popularity of his burger shack, and in a brief conversation he began imagining the recreation of an old 1950s drive-in atmosphere. Although there may be no waitress in a miniskirt to hook a tray on your window, Faul's shack is located in front of a large field where he envisions one day showing films on the lawn.

"All business


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is show business," said Faul, an entrepreneur whose holdings include the Grapevines wine store in Big Y. "It's about excitement, creating interest in people's minds so they want to participate."

However, since this is Faul's first restaurant venture, he needed to work with someone who had restaurant experience. After a brief partnership last year with former Great Lenox Diner owner Charles Hebler, Faul replaced him this year with Dan Guinan as a chef and manager.

"I've cooked all over," said Guinan, "usually at high-end restaurants like the Roseborough Grill or Firefly, so it's neat to jump back. I really enjoy cooking."

When asked about his burger cooking technique, Guinan smiled. "I just cook with love, man."

The burgers are fresh ground Mazzeo's meat from Guido's, formed into seven ounce patties, and served on a toasted bun. The burgers cost around five bucks a piece, and are available with toppings ranging from the traditional All American ($4.75 -- American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, and shack sauce) to the decidedly less traditional Sheffield Slider ($5.50 -- Peanut butter, American cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and mayo). All burgers and dogs are served with a pickle slice.

I had the Chili Popper ($4.95), which came with chili, pepper jack cheese, lettuce, tomato, jalapeno, onion ring, and shack sauce. The bun was more substantial than a steamed bun without being too bready, although the bottom couldn't quite stay solid. The burger was nice and thick and managed to hold together pretty well. The spicing of the burger went well with the chili and jalapenos, the onion ring added some nice texture, and everything was accentuated by the shack sauce which improves upon the usual ketchup and mayo mixture by adding some cajun seasonings. All in all, the Chili Popper was a definite success and a burger worth your while.

Onion rings are always an improvement over regular onions when it comes to burger toppings, and the chili burger was no exception. A large side order of onion rings ($4) of the standard thickly battered variety was pleasant enough, and in retrospect I wish they had replaced the raw onions on the Shroom 'n Cheese burger ($4.95), which was a little dry and bland, especially when compared to the Chili Popper.

The hotdogs are from Pearl Hotdogs in New Jersey, available in either beef or footlong, and are also served on toasted rather than steamed buns. I ordered the footlong Reuben dog ($3.75), and couldn't help but be amused by the over-long hotdog stretching far past the bun in both directions. While a bit thin, the dog had a nice snap to it, and the great taste combination of the melted swiss, Russian dressing, and sauerkraut almost made me forget that I was eating a normal hotdog.

Well, mostly normal. Dan Guinan steams the dogs in a mixture that includes apple juice and brown sugar, resulting in a sweeter flavor than usual. Everyone has their regional favorites when it comes to dogs and burgers, and the Great American Hot Dog and Hamburger Company may just come to fill that niche in Great Barrington.

If you go ...
What: Great American Hot Dog and Hamburger Company

Where: 937 South Main St., Great Barrington.

Accessibility: Fully accessible.

Hours: Tues-Sat 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Mondays 11 a.m.-6 p.m. by July.

Style: Burger shack.

Dress: Anything but naked.

Prices: $3 - $6.

Liquor: No.

Noise: Passing cars.

Credit cards: Cash Only.

Specials: No bathroom on premises.

Information: (413)528-4412.