WEST STOCKBRIDGE -- Everyone, it seems, has a fond recollection of the Shaker Mill Tavern in West Stockbridge and can remember when bus-loads of people would arrive to wine and dine, back in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, when Gordon Rose, a well-known West Stockbridge developer, owned it.
And everyone, for the past few years, when passing by the empty but renovated building, has had a guess as to what its latest metamorphosis was going to be.
In 2006, Dominick A. Luchi, a successful local contractor, joined forces with five local investors and purchased and renovated the tavern with the idea that it would be ideal as a restaurant.
Though he had no experience as a restauranteur, except for a summer stint as a teenage dishwasher and busboy, his instincts have proved right -- they were all just a few years ahead of their time; the sagging economy scared away possible eating establishments and other businesses as well.
"It's too big, not enough seats, won't be able to manage the business," he consistently heard.
"I got tired of all the nay-sayers and pessimists telling me that nothing was going to work, so I decided to run it myself," he said.
In January 2009, Luchi, who thinks of himself as a ‘can-do' guy, became the proprietor of this 885-indoor seat restaurant, with 40 more outdoor seats, should it ever stop raining. The parking lot has been full from the day they
Ron Reda, the former executive chef from Astors, came on board last March, and together he and Luchi planned a menu that is still in transition but, so far, seems to please everyone and is a big success. Rick Horine, sous-chef, and Paul Proudy, day chef, have now joined the staff and, along with Reda, are responsible for lunches and dinners.
This is a family-oriented tavern that also houses a large bar for parents looking for a night out away from the kids to drink a beer and perhaps watch a game. Upscale pub grub is available along with entrees and specials.
Their printed menu touts "A Nostalgic Dining Experience," implying that everyone has been there before: in a word, comfort food plus.
Portions are large; expect to bring home a doggie bag.
The appetizer, ‘chili of the moment,' is more than enough for a light dinner for a light diner, and depending on the day, is prepared with either beef or vegetables. Combine that with their lusciously dressed lemon tavern salad, with arugula, mushrooms, parmesan cheese and pine nuts and you have a delicious dinner.
The menu offers three varieties of hot wings. Traditional fried wings with crumbled blue cheese and celery sticks doused in a just-right-spicy hot sauce are pub-grub to perfection. The other two offerings, for me, are less appealing. One is served with barbecue sauce, and one is a version of Tuscan wings that are roasted rather than deep-fried.
Grilled polenta, sautéed mushrooms, capers, parmesan cheese and tomato sauce is one of the more popular appetizers. Mussels, grilled shrimp and garlic bread, are some of the other choices. A 10" or 14" pizza is another possibility for feeding a hoard of kids or a full table of diners.
Though the 10 oz. black angus burger is still probably the most popular selection, the entrees and specials show an expertise that exceeds typical tavern fare or pub grub. Mussels, clams, shrimp and andouille sausage cooked in a tomato-fennel broth made for a very flavorful seafood stew. Fried catfish, served with black beans, corn and rice with a side of tomato salsa, is a popular special that has been brought back several times and perhaps will become a regular addition, Luchi said. The chefs are also considering chicken cacciatore for regular menu statis.
A fresh fillet of salmon was also a table favorite served with smashed potatoes and dill butter. Pasta with garlic and a dozen fresh littleneck clams made one dining partner very happy. There are several pasta dishes available, though this reviewer has not yet sampled them all.
If you're a fan of big portions, the pork chop is huge. It is served with a side of steamed veggies and smashed potatoes and is moist and tasty. The meatloaf, Luchi said, is a big favorite, though it is not mine.
Desserts, which I never get to sample, are mostly home-made. Carolyn Reda, Ron Reda's mother, contributes the cannolis, or at least the recipe. The blondie brownies and cobbler are made in-house and already have a fan base.
Luchi, an affable, handsome man in his early forties, hit a home-run by believing in and re-opening the Tavern. His biggest surprise is how many people have come to dine there, from all over the county, without any advertising. He hasn't given up his day job, he said, just added another full-time evening one.
Barbara Finn, an 84-year-old long-term Richmond resident and fellow diner, said it best.
"I enjoy the old memories of so many years refreshed again in new surroundings," she said. "It's a place where you're likely to run into your neighbors."
If you go ...
What: Shaker Mill Tavern
Where: 5 Albany Road, West Stockbridge
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Accessible: yes
Coming soon: Outdoor ice cream vendor, evening bar and live entertainment and fall pig roasts.
Information: (413) 232-8565.
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