Tuesday October 23, 2012

Here are recipes adapted from Elizabeth Field's "Marmalade" for some of the marmalades themselves: a recipe using quince; one for whole fruit Seville orange marmalade; banana marmalade; and summer tomato marmalade.

Field says membrillo, a solid quince paste with a slightly tart taste, is typical of the earliest marmalades. It is popular in Spain, Portugal and Latin America where it is eaten with sheep's milk cheese.

MEMBRILLO

4 large quinces

Juice of 1 lemon

Granulated sugar

Wash quinces. Rub off fuzzy down that usually covers their skin. Peel, quarter but do not core. Place them in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add water to cover by about 1/2-inch, about 4 1/2 cups. Add lemon juice. Bring to boil. Lower heat to medium-low. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours.

The consistency will be like chunky applesauce. Add additional water if there is in any danger of it drying out.

Drain, reserving liquid. Remove cores and seeds and discard.

Mash fruit into a rough puree. Weigh the puree on a kitchen scale. Measure out an equal weight of sugar. Return liquid to saucepan. Reduce to about 3/4 cup. Add puree and sugar to saucepan. Over very low heat, allow sugar to dissolve.

Cook for about 20 minutes until it thickens and begins to splutter. Stir often with a wooden spoon. Make sure it doesn't burn.

Once it thickens, stir constantly until it becomes a deep, rose-colored paste that pulls away from the sides of the pan.


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Let cool for about 5 minutes.

Line an 11 x 8-inch pan with parchment or plastic wrap. Transfer the membrillo to the pan, spreading it to the thickness of about 3/4-inch. Leave for a day or so to dry out in a warm place. Turn out of the pan and cut into 2-inch pieces.

Serve immediately on a cheese plate, sliced thinly. You can roll the slices of membrillo in granulated sugar before serving.

Alternatively, thinly slice an individual block and store in a tin or other airtight container. Membrillo will keep for at least 2 weeks at room temperature.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups.


This rich, dark-russet marmalade is one of the easiest marmalades to make, Field writes. The oranges require no initial peeling or slicing. If the oranges are frozen it is not necessary to defrost them. The recipe uses the classic 1-1-1 citrus marmalade ratio template of fruit, water and sugar, but Field says you may adjust sugar quantity to your liking without affecting the marmalade set or texture.

If you cannot get Seville oranges, she recommends substituting juice or Valencia oranges and reducing sugar by one-third to one-half.

Warming the sugar in the oven before proceeding speeds dissolving and setting time but it is optional. The original recipe is double the one here.

WHOLE-FRUIT

SEVILLE ORANGE

MARMALADE

1 1/2 pounds, about 10, Seville oranges

Juice of 2 lemons

Granulated sugar

If you are warming the sugar, preheat oven to 250-degrees and line a rimmed baking sheet with foil.

Place whole oranges with water to cover in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cover saucepan. Simmer gently for about 1 1/2 hours until the oranges are very tender when pierced with a fork. Lift out fruit. Weigh it.

Reserve cooking water. Add lemon juice to cooking water. Weigh out water/juice to equal fruit. Reserve liquid.

Weigh and equal weight of sugar. Set aside or warm in oven on prepared baking sheet for 15 minutes.

Place a cutting board on a large, rimmed baking sheet so you don't lose any juice. Halve oranges crosswise. Scoop out soft centers with a spoon. Remove and discard seeds; any that remain during boiling and can be skimmed off. Reserve pulp.

Thinly slice or dice the peel as you prefer. Put into wide, shallow, heavy-bottomed pan with reserved pulp, cooking liquid and any juice from cutting board. Boil briskly, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes until mixture thickens, darkens and a candy thermometer inserted into it reads 220-degrees to a firm set. Stir all the while to prevent sticking. Skim off scum or seeds.

Let stand in saucepan for 5 minutes before ladling into hot, sterilized canning jars. Leave 1/4-inch headspace. Seal. 

Process jars in a hot water-bath for 5 minutes. When thoroughly cool, label jars. Store in a cool, dark place. Makes about 5 cups

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Field was inspired to create this recipe by a couple of century-old English recipes for banana marmalade and a contemporary Guatemalan recipe for banana jam.

BANANA

MARMALADE

3 ripe bananas, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon orange juice

Juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 1-1/2-inch stick cinnamon

1/2 vanilla bean, split open lengthwise

Pinch of salt

Place all ingredients in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to very low. Simmer uncovered for 15 minutes until marmalade is thick and jamlike. Stir often. Make sure it doesn't burn.

Let cool. Remove vanilla bean and cinnamon stick. Ladle into airtight containers. Will keep for 3 week in refrigerator after opening. Makes about 1 1/2 cups

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Taft Farm in Great Barrington has taken their remaining tomatoes into their large greenhouses so summer tomatoes are still available here in the Berkshires at the end of October.

Field says this recipe cooks down to paste-like consistency, that 4 pounds of tomatoes does, indeed, become 1 cup of tomato marmalade.

SUMMER TOMATO

MARMALADE

1/4 cup granulated sugar

4 small yellow onions, minced

3 tablespoons water

4 pounds firm, ripe tomatoes, peeled, cored and quartered

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground mace

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Put the sugar in a medium-large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook over low heat 4 to 5 minutes until sugar becomes light brown. Stir constantly.

Add onions and water. Sauté for about 3 minutes until onion is golden.

Add remaining ingredients. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium. Stir frequently, breaking up tomatoes with wooden spoon. Cook 20 to 25 minutes until mixture thickens to the consistency of ketchup and becomes slightly glossy.

Let stand in saucepan for 10 minutes before ladling into hot, sterilized canning jars leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Seal.

Process jars in a hot water-bath for 5 minutes. When thoroughly cool label jars. Store in a cool, dry place.

Makes about 1 cup