Chef-owner Alexander Smith wasn't having a mid-life crisis when he decided to take on a four-month renovation at the restaurant he originally opened in 2001 — Gramercy Bistro.
He needed a place where patrons could wait comfortably for a table and without hovering over those already eating in the dining room.
When a space next door — once a Chinese restaurant, then a hardware store, a fast-food establishment, a real estate office and finally a hairdressing salon — became available, he jumped at it.
Like peeling an onion, Smith and crew revealed layers of wall coverings and paint. Labor intensive? Definitely! Worth it? Absolutely!
Gramercy Bistro has always been a warm, intimate, casual space — an informal neighborhood eatery that puts on white tableclothes at night.
Now, with the addition of the "side bar," it offers several dining options — full table service in the dining room, a lighter menu served at the bar or just drinks and socializing.
Smith's Prince Edward Islamd mussels appetizer — or small plate, as he calls it — was one of the best I've had. Fresh, plump mollusks in a spicy Thai broth with cilantro were a perfect beginning, as was the lump crab cake floating on a soupy bed of delicate wasabi vinaigrette.
In the new bar area, in addition to the small plates available on the main dining room menu, you're given a choice of three more: Spicy Shrimp Curry, Beef Bourguignon with Puff Pastry and Chicken en Croute in Veloute with baby vegetables and puff pastry. Alas, for the incorrigible carnivores, there is no hamburger.
The aforementioned three are only available at the bar, but I'm sure, with some coaxing, Smith will serve them to you in the main dining room as well.
Martinis, side cars and sake martinis are Gramercy's signature cocktails, but an impressive list of 12 wines by the glass are also offered, as well as a respectable list of wines by the bottle.
A reasonably priced Australian, Paringa sauvignon blanc paired well with the Sautéed Black Cod entree, encrusted with fennel pollen and served in a saffron sauce. The seasonal cod is delectably moist and the saffron sauce, superbly seasoned with lemon juice, fish stock and a blond roux.
Slightly spicy was the Seared Sea Scallops swimming in a roasted poblano pepper sauce accompanied with sweet potato and plantain hash.
Smith describes his style as eclectic American with French & Asian influences or, in other words, new American.
Certainly the popular Seared Sesame Tuna in a miso ginger broth with soba noodles is evidence of the Asian influence. The pungent aroma of ginger reaches you and whets your appetite as soon as the server places the dish before you. The generous and thick filet was lightly seared and perfectly prepared.
Disappointing was the Caesar salad (no flavor), an undercooked apple puff pastry dessert and the bread basket of ordinary rolls —useful mainly for sopping up the fabulous sauces that accompany many of Smith's creations.
A native of Bennington, Vt, Smith is a Johnson & Wales Culin-ary School graduate and once a part owner of the Williamstown's Cobble Café, Mezze, and Wild Amber Grill.
He began his culinary career at 15, as a dishwasher, at the former Taconic restaurant in Williams-town and left, at 21, as sous-chef.
Working at various jobs around the country, he was head chef at the White House in Wilmington, Vt., for three years before moving to Manhattan to try his luck there. As a private chef for a wealthy yachtsman, he got to travel around the world (or at least the Mediterranean).
Then he was ready to come back home to the Berkshires and in 2001 opened Gramercy Bistro.
Always open to new ideas and priding himself on using fresh organic ingredients whenever possible, he buys meat and poultry that is "everything-free" (meaning, no hormones, antibiotics, or additives).
"I've been 'Berkshire Grownish' even before Berkshire Grown," Smith said, referring to the advocacy group for locally grown products.
"It's important that restaurants and patrons support farmers, cheese makers and other producers who are part of the local economy," said Smith. "If we look after our neighborhood farmers, we give back to our community in the most tangible way possible and sustain local agriculture for future generations."
He is also supporting local artists in rotating shows. Danny O's colorful paintings of North Adams adorned the walls for the inaugural exhibit.
Gramercy Bistro doesn't seem to have missed a beat since the renovation hiatus. Every table was occupied and the kitchen was going at a furious pace.
Smith and his staff did an ad-mirable job and North Adams has yet another reason to be a destination stop in a Berkshiretour.
| » Restaurant review |
Gramercy Bistro, 24 Marshall St., North Adams, (413) 663-5300Style: New American cuisine. Dress: Casual. Prices: Small plates; $5 to $9; entrees; $18 to $22; desserts; $5 to $9; bar menu; $4 to $15. Hours: 5 to 9 every day but Tuesday. Bar hours; 5 to 10. Reservations: Appreciated and recommended Credit cards: All major Handicapped accessible: Yes Noise level: Moderately quiet in main dining room.
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