Spring is here! Here's 15 recipes that take advantage of all our your seasonal favorites.
- By America's Test Kitchen
While raw and roasted vegetables certainly have their place, braising is a great technique for cooking even the most delicate vegetables.
You may think braising would turn verdant spring vegetables drab and watery but, in fact, braising can maximize their freshness and make them taste more like themselves.
To turn early-season produce into a warm side dish, we started by softening a minced shallot in olive oil with additional aromatics for a savory base. To build a flavorful braising liquid, we poured in water and lemon and orange zest and dropped in a bay leaf.
Adding the vegetables in stages ensured that each cooked at its own rate and maintained a crisp texture. Peppery radishes, which turned soft and sweet with cooking, were nicely complemented by the more vegetal notes of asparagus and peas (frozen peas were reliably sweet, and adding them off the heat prevented overcooking).
In no time at all, we had a simple side of radiant vegetables in an invigorating, complex broth proof positive that braising can bring out the best in even the most delicate flavors. A toss of chopped fresh tarragon gave a final nod to spring. Look for asparagus spears no thicker than 1/2 inch.
Braised spring vegetables with tarragon
Servings: 4-6
Start to finish: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, sliced into thin rounds
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
3 sprigs fresh thyme
Pinch red pepper flakes
10 radishes, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
1 1/4 cups water
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper
1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2 inch lengths
2 cups frozen peas
4 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon
DIRECTIONS:
Cook oil, shallot, garlic, thyme sprigs, and pepper flakes in Dutch oven over medium heat until shallot is just softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in radishes, water, lemon zest, orange zest, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until radishes can be easily pierced with tip of paring knife, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in asparagus, cover, and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes.
Off heat, stir in peas, cover, and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Stir in tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 162 calories; 81 calories from fat; 9 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 433 mg sodium; 16 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 5 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Braised Spring Vegetables in "How to Braise Everything ."
- By America's Test Kitchen
This beautiful tart takes just minutes to assemble and makes for an impressive brunch dish, appetizer, or even a simple light lunch or dinner.
We experimented with several different crusts, trying a pie shell, a tart shell, and par-baked puff pastry. The buttery, flaky puff pastry was absolutely irresistible, and so easy to prep.
For a fresh, light filling, we simply scattered the asparagus and other toppings over the pastry base. Cutting the asparagus spears into thin, 1-inch pieces made the tart easier to eat and ensured that the asparagus didn't need precooking.
We tossed the pieces with olive oil, plus garlic, lemon zest, scallions, and olives. For a creamy base to anchor the toppings, tangy, soft goat cheese nicely complemented the bright, grassy asparagus. Blending in a bit of olive oil made it easier to spread. We dolloped more cheese on top of the asparagus and baked the tart to golden perfection.
To thaw frozen puff pastry, let it sit either in the refrigerator for 24 hours or on the counter for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Look for asparagus spears no thicker than 1/2 inch.
Asparagus and goat cheese tart
Servings: 4
Start to finish: 55 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
6 ounces thin asparagus, trimmed and cut 1/4 inch thick on bias (1 cup)
2 scallions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped pitted kalamata olives
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 ounces (1 cup) goat cheese, softened
1 (9 1/2-by-9 inch) sheet puff pastry, thawed
DIRECTIONS:
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 425 F. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine asparagus, scallions, 1 tablespoon oil, olives, garlic, zest, salt, and pepper in bowl. In separate bowl, mix 3/4 cup goat cheese and 1 tablespoon oil until smooth; set aside.
Unfold pastry onto lightly floured counter and roll into 10 inch square; transfer to prepared sheet. Lightly brush outer 1/2 inch of pastry square with water to create border, then fold border toward center, pressing gently to seal.
Spread goat cheese mixture in even layer over center of pastry, avoiding folded border. Scatter asparagus mixture over goat cheese, then crumble remaining 1/4 cup goat cheese over top of asparagus mixture.
Bake until pastry is puffed and golden and asparagus is crisp-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, cut into 4 equal pieces, and serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 530 calories; 366 calories from fat; 41 g fat ( 9 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 13 mg cholesterol; 464 mg sodium; 31 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 11 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Asparagus-Goat Cheese Tart in "Vegetables Illustrated ."
- By Francesca Olsen, Eagle correspondent
I have been using local farmers markets as a way to put more distance between our grocery store trips, and I'm incredibly grateful for the high-quality local food that comes to my door each week, as well as for the people delivering it, the farmers producing it, and the people who are getting the word out about these markets.
In an effort to get more vegetables in our diet (I've definitely been making too much comfort food), our Sunday brunch was a farmers market tribute, mixed with some contingency supplies: A thick slice of homemade bread topped with a springy roasted vegetable spread containing broccoli, ramps and peas, topped with a runny local egg. I'll be using the leftover spread as a stand-in for pesto, as a pizza topping and in sandwiches until our growing season becomes more robust.
Thank you, farmers and local food system architects, for your amazing, and essential, work during this time!
ROASTED VEGETABLE SPREAD
INGREDIENTS:
2 cups frozen broccoli
1 cup ramps (or scallions, whatever)
1 cup frozen peas
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for roasting vegetables
1/3 cup grated Parmesan
A handful of herbs of any kind — I used chives and mint
Salt and pepper to taste, and for roasting vegetables
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Juice of 1/2 lemon
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place broccoli on a sheet pan and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper, then roast 15 to 20 minutes. Add ramps to sheet pan and toss with oil; roast another 5 to 10 minutes.
Add broccoli and ramps to a food processor with peas, olive oil, Parmesan, herbs, salt and pepper, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Pulse until you have a mulch-like consistency (or take it further if that is your preference). Spread on toasty bread and top with a runny egg, or some cheese, or whatever you happen to have on hand.
- By Robin Anish, Eagle correspondent
Soon to come ... pussy willows and crocuses, daffodils and tulips, with violets, lilacs and dandelions not far behind.
Welcome spring!
You've heard the term "a spring chicken" as in a young person or the less than flattering, "he/she's no spring chicken," as in an old person. I'm the later. Well, maybe not old; more like an "autumn chicken" which, I guess, still makes me "no spring chicken."
In terms of cooking, a spring or young chicken would be 6-to-8-weeks old and usually referred to in the markets as broilers or fryers weighing 3 to 4 pounds, as opposed to a roaster, which is 3 to 5 months and 5 to 7 pounds.
Cut up, the young chickens are tender and mild, and cook more quickly, making the broilers/fryers best for grilling or cooking under the broiler.
An older chicken is meatier, with fattier skin and requires more cooking time, making it perfect for roasting and braising.
Young or old, there is no discrimination when it comes to chicken, it's all good and so is this lemony chicken braise with spring vegetables, wine and fresh herbs.
LEMONY BRAISED CHICKEN WITH SPRING VEGETABLES
INGREDIENTS:
8 chicken thighs, skin on, preferably with bone in
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon (dill or basil), divided
1 lemon, rind grated and juice squeezed
2 large leeks
1 bunch asparagus
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 tablespoons butter
DIRECTIONS:
Generously season chicken thighs with salt and pepper on both sides.
In a large deep pan or dutch oven, heat two tablespoons of olive oil on medium high. Add chicken thighs skin side down and cook until skin is a deep golden brown. Remove chicken and set aside. Do this in two batches of four thighs each to not overcrowd pan.
Deglaze pan by adding wine while stirring and scraping up all browned bits from bottom of pan. Stir in chicken stock and 1 tablespoon tarragon. Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind. Return chicken thighs to pan, skin side up. Reduce heat to medium, cover pan and cook chicken to an internal temperature of 165 degrees.
While chicken cooks, prepare vegetables. Cut away the dark green leaves of the leeks leaving the white and pale green stalk. Cut into 1/4-inch slices. Remove tough stems from asparagus and cut on a diagonal in to 1 1/2-inch pieces.
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and asparagus, season with salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are just tender. Add frozen peas and cook two minutes more until peas are heated through.
To serve, arranged chicken on a platter then spoon vegetables around the chicken. Whisk two tablespoons of butter and one tablespoon of fresh lemon juice into pan sauce and pour over chicken. Garnish with a sprinkling of tarragon.
Buttered orzo or rice is the perfect accompaniment.
- By Robin Anish, Food columnist
I have been so longing for spring. Spring in the Berkshires and Southern Vermont is stunning and I want the sunshine and warmth, the flowers and the song birds. I want to open the windows and let some fresh air into my house and I want to plant some pansies!
I don't know when winter will finally subside and let spring begin to bloom, but I can start getting ready for the approaching warm weather. A little spring cleaning and treating myself to a bouquet of fresh flowers will help leave the winter doldrums behind, and I'll dream up some wonderful recipes that are lighter, fresher and healthier like this recipe for pasta with salmon, peas, spring onions and fresh dill.
Pasta with salmon, peas, spring onions and fresh dill
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound campanelle or shell pasta
1 pound salmon filet
salt and pepper
1 3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic,minced
1 bunch scallions, chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1/2 cup low sodium chicken stock
4 tablespoons butter
2 cups frozen petit peas
Zest of one lemon
1/4 cup fresh dill, minced
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated
DIRECTIONS:
Cook pasta according to package directions and reserve one cup of the cooking water.
Brush salmon with some olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes or until just cooked through. Separate into large flakes.
Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, scallions, and white wine. Cook until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add stock, butter and peas. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until peas are just done about 3 minutes. Stir in lemon zest. Add the cooked pasta to the pan along with reserved cooking water and toss over heat to coat the pasta in sauce. Gently stir in salmon and dill. Sprinkle with grated parmigiano-reggiano and top off with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice if desired.
- By Katie Workman, The Associated Press
This lemon sauce is such a simple way to dress up roasted asparagus, the pinup vegetable of spring ... or any simply cooked asparagus for that matter, such as grilled, steamed or sautéed. In fact, this sauce is also a quick and easy way to dress up pretty much any plainly cooked vegetable, from potatoes to green beans to broccoli.
The sauce is vivid with citrus and a bit (not too much!) of hot sauce. The creaminess comes from creme fraiche, and sour cream or Greek yogurt could be substituted in if you like. You can make it ahead of time and store it in the fridge for a few days.
If you are using thicker asparagus, think about peeling the lower parts of the stalks, which results in a stalk that is tender from stem to stern. After trimming the bottom inch or so off the asparagus, simply take a vegetable peeler and peel off the green outer layer (which can be tough) from the bottom of the stalk, roughly 2-3 inches.
Lastly, if you would like to add a sprinkle of fresh herbs on top, anything from parsley to basil to chervil would be lovely. Another great option would be to drape a slice of prosciutto over each portion of dressed asparagus, which could also make a stylish appetizer.
Roasted asparagus with creamy lemon dressing
Serves 6 to 8
Start to finish: 25 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
Roasted asparagus:
2 pounds medium-thick asparagus
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lemon dressing:
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons creme fraiche, sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Sriracha, or to taste
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Trim the bottom 2 inches from the asparagus and, if desired, peel the lower 2 inches of the stalks. Place the asparagus in a shallow baking pan or rimmed baking sheet. Don't worry if the stalks overlap a bit. Drizzle the tablespoon of olive oil over them and toss gently to coat the asparagus evenly. Sprinkle on the salt and pepper, toss again and spread out in the pan.
Roast the asparagus for about 10 minutes, until just tender and slightly browned. Remember that they will continue to cook a bit after you remove them from the oven, so take them out while they're still a little firmer than you would like.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, zest, cr me fraiche and Sriracha until smooth. Slowly pour in the 1/3 cup olive oil, whisking all the while until the dressing is thick, then season with salt and pepper.
Let the asparagus cool slightly, and while still warm drizzle some of the lemon sauce over it. Serve right away with the rest of the sauce passed on the side for people to add if desired.
Nutrition information per serving: 157 calories; 123 calories from fat; 14 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 4 mg cholesterol; 154 mg sodium; 6 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 3 g protein.
Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, "Dinner Solved!" and "The Mom 100 Cookbook." She blogs at http://www.themom100.com/about-katie-workman
- By Robin Anish, Food columnist
As many probably are, I am biting at the bit to get into the garden, but the spring has been awfully cool and damp with most days shrouded in a ceiling of heavy, gray clouds an atmosphere that is not very motivating nor a very good environment for the vegetation.
I am fighting the temptation to buy vegetable and flower plants but, in reality, it is still too early to set out plants and they are much better off in warm greenhouses for now. So, I will wait a bit longer. Even when it comes to gardening, patience is a virtue!
On a positive note, my fall-planted garlic is about two feet tall and brilliantly green. Some of the perennial herbs are leafing out and the mint has grown enough that I can get a small harvest now.
Mint is a perennial herb and well worth growing, even for just the fresh minty perfume drifting in the air as you walk by it. The fragrance is both calming and uplifting. Mint is very productive and can take over the garden, so growing it in a pot is a good way to contain it.
There are many varieties of mint, but I find spearmint to be the most versatile. It makes a great tea when crushed and steeped in hot water to help settle an upset stomach. Mint is a must in lemonade, ice tea and cocktails think of the classic mint julep served icy cold on the day of the Kentucky Derby. It's spirited flavor compliments fruits, vegetables, salads and sweets. Who doesn't love peppermint patties!
When the stems grow nice and tall, I cut them and add them to floral arrangements. They are a beautiful and fragrant addition to a bouquet of flowers.
Like two peas in a pod, mint and peas go hand in hand when part of this flavorful spring potato salad.
Spring potato salad
INGREDIENTS:
2 pounds small red potatoes
3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
4 tablespoons safflower or canola oil (olive oil can be used but I find its flavor overpowers this particular salad combination)
1 cup cooked fresh baby peas or thawed frozen
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves finely sliced
2 or 3 scallions, finely sliced
DIRECTIONS:
Cover potatoes with cold salted water in a large saucepan, bring to a boil and then simmer, covered, until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, cool until able to handle and quarter or cut into cubes as desired.
Whisk together vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil until blended. Taste the dressing and adjust seasonings as desired. If too acidic for your taste, add a pinch or two of sugar or a little extra oil. If you prefer more tang, add a little extra vinegar or mustard. While potatoes are still a bit warm, combine with dressing, peas, mint and scallions and serve.
- By Sara Moulton , The Associated Press
Here's a salad fit to join the lineup for your fanciest dinner or holiday meal. Each of the ingredients brings its own unique taste and texture to the mix, but the standout is the praline. A hard candy typically consisting of sugar and nuts, praline was invented in the 17th century by the French (which is why it's pronounced "prah leen," not "pray line"). Here in America all these years later, there are two distinct versions of praline — the New Orleans version and the version made everywhere else. This recipe uses the non-New Orleans type.
At the heart of the praline is its caramel, which is nothing more or less than sugar cooked until it turns golden. The challenge is how to cook it. Typically, we're advised to combine sugar and water in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves. The process requires using a brush dipped in water to wash any sugar stuck to the sides of the pan into the mixture on the bottom. Doing so is meant to prevent the mixture from crystalizing and becoming cloudy and soft when you want it to end up clear and hard. My best efforts notwithstanding, I've found that the sugar often crystalizes anyway.
The Brits have figured out a better to make caramel (aka burnt sugar): put the sugar in a dry pan over medium heat until it melts, then continue cooking until it becomes golden. Simple and foolproof. If you're a caramel maker, or you want to be one, this is the best method for you.
As for the other ingredients, you're welcome to swap in different greens, dried fruits or cheeses. And if you're no fan of pecans, substitute walnuts, pistachios or even peanuts. Whatever the combo, the praline will put it over the top.
Arugula salad with spicy pecan praline, dried cranberries and aged gouda
Start to finish: 35 minutes
Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS:
For the praline:
1/2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste
1/4 cup sugar
For the dressing:
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
For the salad:
8 cups loosely packed arugula
3/4 cup coarsely grated aged gouda
1/2 cup dried cranberries
DIRECTIONS:
Make the praline: Lightly oil a baking sheet. In a small bowl toss the pecans with the salt and cayenne. Place the sugar in a heavy skillet or saucepan and cook over medium heat until the sugar starts to melt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sugar turns a golden caramel. Add the pecan mixture and, using a heatproof spatula or spoon, stir to combine well.
Carefully pour the pecan praline onto the sheet pan (the mixture will be very hot) and spread evenly with an oiled offset spatula. Let cool completely. Crack the praline into pieces and medium-chop it.
Make the dressing: In a bowl whisk together the mustard, vinegar and salt to taste, until the salt is dissolved. Add the oil in a stream, whisking, until all the oil is incorporated. Taste and add additional salt, if necessary, and black pepper to taste.
Make the salad: In a large bowl combine the arugula, gouda, cranberries and praline. Add the dressing and toss well.
Nutritional information per serving: 245 calories; 168 calories from fat; 19 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 14 mg cholesterol; 275 mg sodium; 17 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 15 g sugar; 5 g protein.
Sara Moulton is host of public television's "Sara's Weeknight Meals." She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows including "Cooking Live." Her latest cookbook is "HomeCooking 101."
- By Melissa d'Arabian, The Associated Press
We're not a huge radish-eating country here in the United States, and I think that's a mistake.
Radishes carry in their little bodies a tremendous variety of vitamins and minerals, so they're a smart addition to our five-a-day veggie eating, but the spicy flavor can keep many home cooks away.
In France, I learned to love radishes as common cocktail hour snack (or "aperitif"), eaten raw, smeared with a small glob of butter and a dash of salt. If that sounds a little crazy, I dare you to try it and tell me that the French are not the wisest radish-eating culture out there. Of course, falling in love with a veggie only when topped with creamy fatty butter isn't exactly a recipe for healthy eating, but it did get radishes on my radar, which led me to: roasting them.
If you haven't roasted radishes before, you are in for a surprise. The sharp flavor mellows into a sweet earthiness that is completely family-friendly. In fact, my four girls have love roasted radishes since they were toddlers, owing to the gorgeous shade of pink they turn in the oven. Radishes are delicious simply tossed in a little olive oil and salt and pepper, and then roasted until tender in a hot oven — about 20 minutes at 400 F. Or, add some minced garlic and dried herbs before cooking and then a squeeze of lemon before eating.
Today's recipe tops plain roasted radishes with a quick green goddess dressing made from Greek yogurt, lemon juice, dill and parsley. Drizzle the dressing over hot radishes and serve as a side dish, or let the radishes cool to use as finger food to dip in the gorgeous herbaceous sauce.
Roasted radishes with green goddess dressing
Servings: 6
Start to finish: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound radishes, about 15, cut in half, lengthwise
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Green Goddess Dressing:
1/2 cup low fat plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 cup chopped green onion
1/4 teaspoon minced fresh garlic (about 1/2 a clove)
1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh dill (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Place the halved radishes, olive oil and salt and pepper in a small bowl and stir to coat. Pour the radishes onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast until tender, about 20 minutes (no need to flip). Meanwhile, place all the dressing ingredients into a blender and blend just until mixed, but a few green flecks remain, about 20 seconds. (The recipe makes extra dressing.)
Serve the radishes warm or room temperature with about half of the sauce — either drizzled on top, or served in a small bowl as a dip.
Nutrition information per serving: 38 calories; 19 calories from fat; 2 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 1 mg cholesterol; 274 mg sodium; 4 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 1 g protein.
Food Network star Melissa d'Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, "Supermarket Healthy." Online: http://www.melissadarabian.net
- By America's Test Kitchen
You'd never know that pasta primavera, a pseudo-Italian dish that appears on virtually every chain restaurant menu, actually has roots in French haute cuisine.
The usual reproduction — a random jumble of produce tossed with noodles in a heavy, flavor-deadening cream sauce — tastes nothing like spring. Surprisingly, when we dug up the original recipe from New York's famed Le Cirque restaurant, our colleagues found it wasn't all that inspiring either, despite taking about 2 hours to prepare and dirtying five pans.
First, the vegetables (which had been painstakingly blanched one by one) were bland. Second, the cream-, butter- and cheese-enriched sauce dulled flavor and didn't really unify the dish.
If we wanted a true spring-vegetable pasta — with a few thoughtfully chosen vegetables and a light, but full-bodied sauce that clung well to the noodles and brought the dish together — we'd have to start from the beginning.
Spring vegetable pasta
Servings: 4-6
Start to finish: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS:
1 1/2 pounds leeks, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and washed thoroughly, plus 3 cups coarsely chopped dark green parts, washed thoroughly
1 pound asparagus, tough ends trimmed, chopped coarse, and reserved; spears cut on bias into 1/2 inch lengths
2 cups frozen peas, thawed
4 cups vegetable broth
1 cup water
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
plus 2 tablespoons juice
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound campanelle (farfalle and penne are acceptable substitutes)
1 cup dry white wine
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (1/2 cup), plus extra for serving
DIRECTIONS:
Bring leek greens, asparagus trimmings, 1 cup peas, broth, water, and half of garlic to boil in large saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 10 minutes. While broth simmers, combine mint, chives, and lemon zest in bowl; set aside.
Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into 8 cup liquid measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible (you should have 5 cups broth; add water as needed to equal 5 cups). Discard solids and return broth to saucepan. Cover and keep warm.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add leeks and pinch salt and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until leeks begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus spears and cook until asparagus is crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add pepper flakes and remaining garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add remaining 1 cup peas and continue to cook for 1 minute longer. Transfer vegetables to bowl and set aside. Wipe out pot with paper towels.
Heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add pasta and cook, stirring often, until just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 2 minutes.
When wine is fully absorbed, add warm broth and bring to boil. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of liquid is absorbed and pasta is al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in Parmesan, lemon juice, vegetables, and half of herb mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately, passing extra Parmesan and remaining herb mixture separately.
Nutrition information per serving: 605 calories; 155 calories from fat; 17 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 4 mg cholesterol; 436 mg sodium; 88 g carbohydrate; 10 g fiber; 13 g sugar; 18 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Spring Vegetable Pasta in "Revolutionary Recipes."
- By Robin Anish, Eagle correspondent
A mantra "it will come," "it will come" "it will come."
Repeat over and over again, and it will help maintain your sanity until Mother Nature stops teasing us with only occasional snippets of spring like weather.
I am going to think like a kid and be happy to take each day as it comes and remember that it will come spring will come!
Fresh asparagus or spring peas, along with buttered red potatoes, are perfect compliments to this savory meatloaf made with ground turkey and sweetened with an orange apricot glaze.
Turkey and apricot meatloaf
INGREDIENTS:
1/3 cup orange juice, preferably fresh squeezed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 cup finely chopped dried apricots
2 pounds ground turkey
3/4 cup plain bread crumbs
1 small onion finely chopped
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
8 slices bacon
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Puree orange juice, soy sauce and 1/4 cup apricots in a food processor until smooth.
Mix together turkey, remaining 3/4 cup apricots, onions, bread crumbs, seasonings and egg. Shape into a loaf in a 13 by 9 inch baking dish. Lay bacon strips over the top and spread the apricot puree over the top.
Bake the meatloaf until internal temperature reaches 165 degrees on a meat thermometer. Keep in mind that when using ground turkey cooking to this temperature is essential. This should take about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Let the loaf rest 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
By the way, as I've finished this column, the snow has stopped and the sun is peaking out. I do believe it will come! Spring will come!
- By Robert Luhmann, Eagle correspondent
One of the great delights of this time of year in the Berkshires and Southern Vermont is the appearance of ramps. These wild onions, with a flavor that could broadly be described as somewhere between garlic and onion, are free for the taking for those willing to seek them out.
There's a multitude of culinary uses for them. The bulbs can be pickled and the greens made into pesto or a compound butter. The whole plant can be sautéed and added to an omelet, to a potato or pasta dish or in a soup, as a few suggestions. They can be used in any dish that calls for leeks, wild leeks being another name by which they are known. They do, however, have a stronger flavor than leeks, so adjust accordingly for those sensitive to onion or garlic. Happily, I have no such sensitivity, so I use them by the handful!
Ramps are a member of the Allium genus, which includes onion, garlic, shallot and the like. The botanical name for ramps is Allium tricoccum for the three seeds they produce. They can be harvested for about a month each season and their culinary use date back to harvests by North American indigenous peoples. Ramps' popularity has grown substantially over the years with well-established festivals, mostly in the southern Appalachians, celebrating their appearance. Their popularity is such that sustainability has become an issue in those areas.
As good luck would have it, they appear in our surrounding woods, overlapping for a time with fiddlehead ferns and morel mushrooms. I consider myself an amateur, but enthusiastic, forager, who has recently semi-retired, allowing more time for tramping around in the woods.
I was lucky enough this season to include all three in a meal recently. I made a ramp vichyssoise as a starter. I included the fiddleheads in a salad with prosciutto, grape tomatoes, cucumber and basil, with a dusting of Parmigiana Reggiano. I followed this with a pureed baby bella mushroom soup garnished with sauteed sliced morels. Dessert was all store-bought. I had found some decent strawberries with which I made a crisp topped with our wonderful local Aylada honey lavender frozen yogurt. It was a fun and satisfying meal with the lovely, Lois, and good friends who were with me on most of my foraging expeditions.
The ramps I've found have been in dampish wooded areas close to water. They grow in large clumps and I've taken a couple of pounds from two different areas this year. In both instances, it was difficult to tell I had taken any at all. That will probably be the end of my ramp harvest this year, what with the somewhat laborious cleaning process and not wanting to harvest so much that I waste them. They're a special found food during a special (however wet!) time of renewal!
RAMP VICHYSSOISE
Serves 6 as a starter
INGREDIENTS:
3 slices thick cut bacon, diced
2 tablespoons butter
4 cups chopped ramps, bulb and greens included
3 cups diced, peeled Yukon Gold potatoes
6 cups chicken stock
Cr me fraiche and chopped chives to garnish
Salt and pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Over medium heat, sauté the bacon in the butter until crisp in your favorite soup pot. Add the chopped ramps and continue to sauté until the bulbs become translucent. Add the potatoes and chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer for approximately 8 to 10 minutes until the potatoes are soft enough to puree. Puree soup and chill completely. Adjust salt and pepper and serve in wide bowls garnished with a spoonful of creme fraiche and chopped chives.
- By Robert Luhmann, Eagle Correspondent
"If I told you, I'd have to kill you!" is a common tongue-in-cheek answer that a successful morel mushroom forager will give you if you ask where they found their harvest of these delicious, elusive fungi in the Berkshire woods. Or, as the expression goes, "Morels are everywhere and impossible to find."
May is morel season in the Berkshires and I'm a very amateur morel forager. I've found the activity of foraging not unlike fishing; it allows me to let go of any cares or stress I may be holding, while forcing me to be present in the beauty of outdoors. Of course, it's much better if you're successful in either activity; fishing becomes catching and foraging becomes gathering. For years, except for an occasional morel or two, I hadn't moved beyond foraging to gathering.
My luck changed a couple of years ago, when the wife of a very good friend, with whom I hike and forage, called me excitedly and said they'd discovered a patch of morels on their neighbor's front yard. I raced over to my friends' home and was astonished at their discovery. As I said, I'd spent years in the woods foraging for morels, mostly casually, but sometimes intently, with little success. Here were dozens sprouting up on a section of their neighbor's front yard! But, how to ethically gather them from someone else's land? As always, lust helps provide answers to ethical quandaries.
Their neighbor's house is used exclusively as a rental property by members of the Boston Symphony Orchestra for the Tanglewood season beginning in June. The grass was relatively high on the lawn and we knew that the morels would be shredded as soon as the lawn service came. Besides, they couldn't possibly know of such riches on a corner of their lawn, which was all but on my friends' land, if not for an arbitrary line drawn by an unknown surveyor decades previously. We decided among ourselves it would be unconscionable to allow those precious gems to be mowed down. It was our moral (morel?) duty to harvest as many as we could.
We were like kids allowed to grab candy in a candy store for free. It took us minutes to gleefully clear that section of lawn of morels. As it happened, hours after we cut the main harvest from that spot, their neighbor's lawn service did come to mow. So, not only were we able to gather dozens of the delicious fungi, our triumph was amplified by narrowly averting disaster. Because of this victory, I've added another heroic tale to recount and embellish for the next generations, some of whom actually care. I'd reveal the names of my friends, but that could reveal where our morels might be found this year and we're not prepared to continually guard the spot for the season.
My foraging friend and I have since found another spot rich with morels in a wooded area, where they are more commonly found, which more than doubled our bounty last year. Since my knowledge of morel foraging is pretty much limited to being able to identify a true morel and the ash trees under which they typically sprout in the Berkshires, I'll leave the education of morel foraging to a thorough Google and YouTube search or to someone who is truly knowledgeable, such as John Wheeler at the Berkshire Mycological Society.
Just as it is with fishing, as much as I enjoy the activity of foraging, the part I like best is the eating part. Morels have a unique earthy, meaty flavor that is as hard to describe as the flavor of truffles. Their season is weeks long and they have not been successfully cultivated as a cash crop in the U.S., which makes them a pricey treat in the markets. Fresh morels in season can often be found at Guido's Fresh Marketplace if you're unwilling to potentially face years of foraging failure as I did. Rehydrated dried morels don't have the meaty texture and are not quite as nuanced, but are stronger flavored and can, of course, be bought year-round. I can tell you with certainty they taste better when you've gathered them yourself.
My cooking style often tends to the Italian, using excellent ingredients in season consciously and simply. This recipe is an example.
MORELS WITH TAGLIATELLE, CREME FRAICHE AND CHIVES
When using an ingredient as precious as fresh morels for pasta, I make homemade pasta. I've been a big fan of Marcella Hazan since I attended her cooking demonstration of homemade pasta at Boston University in the late 1980s. I suggest watching her son, Giuliano, in a series of YouTube videos on homemade pasta before making it. I find them excellent for beginner or advanced homemade pasta makers alike. Think of Giuliano as an easy-going Moses presenting the commandments of homemade pasta from our lord, Marcella, who spread so much joy in her life, but did not suffer fools well.
A pretty obvious unwritten commandment is thou shalt not freeze fresh pasta. I witnessed some poor woman, who is probably still scarred 30 years later, ask that oxymoronic question of Marcella, who looked at her as if she were a cockroach that had somehow found its way into her immaculate kitchen and verbally disposed of her as if she were such.
Using a high-quality dried fettuccine is not a sin, so it is written.
Yield: 4 primi or 2 secondi portions
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 pound homemade tagliatelle (2-egg pasta recipe)
2 ounces butter
1 large shallot sliced (1/2 cup)
3/4 cup dry white wine
Morel mushrooms, sliced (2 cups fresh, 1 cup reconstituted dried)
One 8-ounce container creme fraiche
1 cup sliced chives (reserve a few for garnish)
DIRECTIONS:
Put 2 quarts of salted water on to boil. In a 12-inch skillet, saute the shallots in the butter over medium heat until soft. Add white wine and reduce to almost a glaze. If using dried morels, add water in which they have been reconstituted, avoiding any grit that may be at the bottom, to the wine. Add morels and creme fraiche and cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring while maintaining a medium heat. Cook tagliatelle in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, depending on thickness. Cook pasta slightly less than al dente as the pasta will cook further in the sauce. Drain pasta, reserving a cup of pasta water, if needed to adjust the sauce to a proper consistency. Add pasta and sliced chives to the sauce and cook approximately 30 seconds to 1 minute longer. Add reserved pasta water, if needed. Almost all the sauce should be absorbed by the pasta. Finish with salt (I love Maldon salt!) and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve in shallow bowls garnished with reserved chives.
- By Alison Ladman, The Associated Press
Soup can be an unusual choice for a spring dinner. We're supposed to be celebrating light, bright flavors and a return of fresh produce. Heavy and hearty are out of place.
Except that spring soups can be bright, light and a delicious blend of fresh — rather than long-simmered — flavors. Looking for an accompaniment to the traditional flavors of Easter dinner, we created this rich, creamy chilled soup that is simple and refreshing. It blends blanched peas, cucumber and avocados with mint and basil for a rush of beautiful green flavors.
This soup and pesto are easily prepared up to a day ahead, then refrigerated. Let warm slightly to room temperature before serving.
Chilled cucumber, avocado and pea soup with mint pesto
Start to finish: 15 minutes
Servings: 6
Ingredients:
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves
6 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 teaspoon lime juice
1 cup fresh or frozen peas
2 avocados, pitted and peeled
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1/4 cup sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
Directions:
To make the pesto, in a food processor combine the mint, basil and olive oil. Process until smooth, then season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lime juice, then set aside.
In a small saucepan, heat 1/2 inch of water. Once the water is simmering, add the peas and cook until tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Drain the peas and cool completely.
Shortly before serving, in a blender combine the avocados, cucumber, peas and buttermilk. Process until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the soup into serving bowls and drizzle with the pesto. Top each with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.
Nutrition information per serving: 300 calories; 220 calories from fat (73 percent of total calories); 25 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 5 mg cholesterol; 15 g carbohydrate; 7 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 7 g protein; 250 mg sodium.
- By Jim Romanoff, Associated Press
For the dedicated kitchen gardener, winter can be a tough period limited to leafing through seed catalogs and stretching the remnants of whatever was canned or frozen from last season's harvest.
Then comes springtime. In some gardens the first crop of peas are planted as early as St. Patrick's Day and harvested before the summer heat begins. And then there's that mint, which no matter how rough a winter it's been seems to be the first herb that bounces back.
In this spirit we've created this recipe for fusilli with tomatoes, peas, garlic, feta and mint. Not ready to garden? Frozen peas work just fine.
FUSILLI WITH TOMATOES,
PEAS, GARLIC, FETA AND MINT
Start to finish: 25 minutes
Servings: 4
12 ounces regular or whole-grain fusilli pasta
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
28-ounce can diced tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup baby peas, fresh or frozen
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions, then drain well. Return the pasta to the pot and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Set aside.
Meanwhile, drain the tomatoes, reserving 1/3 cup of the juice. Set both aside.
In a large skillet over medium-low, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, but not browned, about 1 minute.
Add the peas, capers and the tomatoes and reserved juice. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is simmering, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the mint, then season with salt and pepper.
Serve the pasta with the sauce spooned over the top and sprinkled with feta.
Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 480 calories; 107 calories from fat (22 percent of total calories); 12 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 11 mg cholesterol; 78 g carbohydrate; 16 g protein; 9 g fiber; 732 mg sodium.
- By Robin Anish, Food writer
Welcome May — my favorite month of the year! It is showering and dreary as I'm composing my column, but May is a gentle month when rain is greeted in anticipation of the flowers and foliage it brings forth soon to be followed by the butterflies and busy bees. The sunshine and warmth of May is like no other — perfect! The air is fresh and there is an ethereal pastel glow as the young leaves on the trees emerge — yes, perfect! May awakens my senses, restores my energy and revives my spirit — perfectly!
May is also the beginning of a season of food and festivities. This week alone we can celebrate Cinco de Mayo on the 5th, for those who should know, a reminder that it is mom's birthday on the 6th — hint, hint! — the Kentucky Derby on the 7th and Mother's Day on the 8th.
Keep the celebrations going with an occasion every day of the month. Check out foodimentary.com, a fun website that lists celebrations for every day of every month of the year. My favorites are the National Liver & Onions day on the 10th, National "Eat What You Want Day" on the 11th; National Fruit Cocktail Day on the 13th, and National Grape Popsicle Day on the 27th. May is National Egg, Hamburger and BBQ month while the 3rd week in May is American Craft Brew Week and the 20th is National Pick Strawberries Day.
Here's a favorite dessert perfect for any day in May.
No-Bake Lady Finger Torte
Ingredients:
20 oz can crushed, pineapple packed in juice
1/3 cup sugar
3 Tbs cornstarch
12 oz cream cheese
3/4 cups sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 pint heavy cream
3 pkgs lady fingers
Directions:
Mix pineapple, sugar, cornstarch and cook over medium heat until thickened. Cool completely.
Separate lady fingers. In a 9-inch springform pan, line the bottom then sides with lady fingers. Beat cream cheese with sugar and vanilla. Whip cream and fold into cream cheese mixture. Spread 1/3 of pineapple on lady fingers then half the cream mixture on top; put another layer of lady fingers; repeat pineapple and cream layers then top with any remaining lady fingers, then top with remaining pineapple. Chill several hours or overnight before releasing sides of pan. Before serving, pipe extra whipped cream around the edges, allowing pineapple to show and garnish as desired. Mint is always a nice way to top it off.
Any fruit filling can be substituted for the pineapple. Fold lemon zest into the cream filling, replace pineapple with lemon curd, add a sprinkling of chopped pistachios to garnish — my favorite version of this torte.
Robin Anish is a former caterer who lives in Lenox, where she continues to cater to her enthusiasm for cooking. She can be contacted via The Berkshire Eagle at 75 South Church St., Pittsfield MA 01201.
More like this...
- By America's Test Kitchen
While raw and roasted vegetables certainly have their place, braising is a great technique for cooking even the most delicate vegetables.
You may think braising would turn verdant spring vegetables drab and watery but, in fact, braising can maximize their freshness and make them taste more like themselves.
To turn early-season produce into a warm side dish, we started by softening a minced shallot in olive oil with additional aromatics for a savory base. To build a flavorful braising liquid, we poured in water and lemon and orange zest and dropped in a bay leaf.
Adding the vegetables in stages ensured that each cooked at its own rate and maintained a crisp texture. Peppery radishes, which turned soft and sweet with cooking, were nicely complemented by the more vegetal notes of asparagus and peas (frozen peas were reliably sweet, and adding them off the heat prevented overcooking).
In no time at all, we had a simple side of radiant vegetables in an invigorating, complex broth proof positive that braising can bring out the best in even the most delicate flavors. A toss of chopped fresh tarragon gave a final nod to spring. Look for asparagus spears no thicker than 1/2 inch.
Braised spring vegetables with tarragon
Servings: 4-6
Start to finish: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, sliced into thin rounds
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
3 sprigs fresh thyme
Pinch red pepper flakes
10 radishes, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
1 1/4 cups water
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper
1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2 inch lengths
2 cups frozen peas
4 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon
DIRECTIONS:
Cook oil, shallot, garlic, thyme sprigs, and pepper flakes in Dutch oven over medium heat until shallot is just softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in radishes, water, lemon zest, orange zest, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until radishes can be easily pierced with tip of paring knife, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in asparagus, cover, and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes.
Off heat, stir in peas, cover, and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Stir in tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 162 calories; 81 calories from fat; 9 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 433 mg sodium; 16 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 5 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Braised Spring Vegetables in "How to Braise Everything ."
- By America's Test Kitchen
This beautiful tart takes just minutes to assemble and makes for an impressive brunch dish, appetizer, or even a simple light lunch or dinner.
We experimented with several different crusts, trying a pie shell, a tart shell, and par-baked puff pastry. The buttery, flaky puff pastry was absolutely irresistible, and so easy to prep.
For a fresh, light filling, we simply scattered the asparagus and other toppings over the pastry base. Cutting the asparagus spears into thin, 1-inch pieces made the tart easier to eat and ensured that the asparagus didn't need precooking.
We tossed the pieces with olive oil, plus garlic, lemon zest, scallions, and olives. For a creamy base to anchor the toppings, tangy, soft goat cheese nicely complemented the bright, grassy asparagus. Blending in a bit of olive oil made it easier to spread. We dolloped more cheese on top of the asparagus and baked the tart to golden perfection.
To thaw frozen puff pastry, let it sit either in the refrigerator for 24 hours or on the counter for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Look for asparagus spears no thicker than 1/2 inch.
Asparagus and goat cheese tart
Servings: 4
Start to finish: 55 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
6 ounces thin asparagus, trimmed and cut 1/4 inch thick on bias (1 cup)
2 scallions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped pitted kalamata olives
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 ounces (1 cup) goat cheese, softened
1 (9 1/2-by-9 inch) sheet puff pastry, thawed
DIRECTIONS:
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 425 F. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine asparagus, scallions, 1 tablespoon oil, olives, garlic, zest, salt, and pepper in bowl. In separate bowl, mix 3/4 cup goat cheese and 1 tablespoon oil until smooth; set aside.
Unfold pastry onto lightly floured counter and roll into 10 inch square; transfer to prepared sheet. Lightly brush outer 1/2 inch of pastry square with water to create border, then fold border toward center, pressing gently to seal.
Spread goat cheese mixture in even layer over center of pastry, avoiding folded border. Scatter asparagus mixture over goat cheese, then crumble remaining 1/4 cup goat cheese over top of asparagus mixture.
Bake until pastry is puffed and golden and asparagus is crisp-tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, cut into 4 equal pieces, and serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 530 calories; 366 calories from fat; 41 g fat ( 9 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 13 mg cholesterol; 464 mg sodium; 31 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 11 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Asparagus-Goat Cheese Tart in "Vegetables Illustrated ."
- By Francesca Olsen, Eagle correspondent
I have been using local farmers markets as a way to put more distance between our grocery store trips, and I'm incredibly grateful for the high-quality local food that comes to my door each week, as well as for the people delivering it, the farmers producing it, and the people who are getting the word out about these markets.
In an effort to get more vegetables in our diet (I've definitely been making too much comfort food), our Sunday brunch was a farmers market tribute, mixed with some contingency supplies: A thick slice of homemade bread topped with a springy roasted vegetable spread containing broccoli, ramps and peas, topped with a runny local egg. I'll be using the leftover spread as a stand-in for pesto, as a pizza topping and in sandwiches until our growing season becomes more robust.
Thank you, farmers and local food system architects, for your amazing, and essential, work during this time!
ROASTED VEGETABLE SPREAD
INGREDIENTS:
2 cups frozen broccoli
1 cup ramps (or scallions, whatever)
1 cup frozen peas
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for roasting vegetables
1/3 cup grated Parmesan
A handful of herbs of any kind — I used chives and mint
Salt and pepper to taste, and for roasting vegetables
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Juice of 1/2 lemon
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place broccoli on a sheet pan and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper, then roast 15 to 20 minutes. Add ramps to sheet pan and toss with oil; roast another 5 to 10 minutes.
Add broccoli and ramps to a food processor with peas, olive oil, Parmesan, herbs, salt and pepper, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Pulse until you have a mulch-like consistency (or take it further if that is your preference). Spread on toasty bread and top with a runny egg, or some cheese, or whatever you happen to have on hand.
- By Robin Anish, Eagle correspondent
Soon to come ... pussy willows and crocuses, daffodils and tulips, with violets, lilacs and dandelions not far behind.
Welcome spring!
You've heard the term "a spring chicken" as in a young person or the less than flattering, "he/she's no spring chicken," as in an old person. I'm the later. Well, maybe not old; more like an "autumn chicken" which, I guess, still makes me "no spring chicken."
In terms of cooking, a spring or young chicken would be 6-to-8-weeks old and usually referred to in the markets as broilers or fryers weighing 3 to 4 pounds, as opposed to a roaster, which is 3 to 5 months and 5 to 7 pounds.
Cut up, the young chickens are tender and mild, and cook more quickly, making the broilers/fryers best for grilling or cooking under the broiler.
An older chicken is meatier, with fattier skin and requires more cooking time, making it perfect for roasting and braising.
Young or old, there is no discrimination when it comes to chicken, it's all good and so is this lemony chicken braise with spring vegetables, wine and fresh herbs.
LEMONY BRAISED CHICKEN WITH SPRING VEGETABLES
INGREDIENTS:
8 chicken thighs, skin on, preferably with bone in
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon (dill or basil), divided
1 lemon, rind grated and juice squeezed
2 large leeks
1 bunch asparagus
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 tablespoons butter
DIRECTIONS:
Generously season chicken thighs with salt and pepper on both sides.
In a large deep pan or dutch oven, heat two tablespoons of olive oil on medium high. Add chicken thighs skin side down and cook until skin is a deep golden brown. Remove chicken and set aside. Do this in two batches of four thighs each to not overcrowd pan.
Deglaze pan by adding wine while stirring and scraping up all browned bits from bottom of pan. Stir in chicken stock and 1 tablespoon tarragon. Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind. Return chicken thighs to pan, skin side up. Reduce heat to medium, cover pan and cook chicken to an internal temperature of 165 degrees.
While chicken cooks, prepare vegetables. Cut away the dark green leaves of the leeks leaving the white and pale green stalk. Cut into 1/4-inch slices. Remove tough stems from asparagus and cut on a diagonal in to 1 1/2-inch pieces.
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and asparagus, season with salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are just tender. Add frozen peas and cook two minutes more until peas are heated through.
To serve, arranged chicken on a platter then spoon vegetables around the chicken. Whisk two tablespoons of butter and one tablespoon of fresh lemon juice into pan sauce and pour over chicken. Garnish with a sprinkling of tarragon.
Buttered orzo or rice is the perfect accompaniment.
- By Robin Anish, Food columnist
I have been so longing for spring. Spring in the Berkshires and Southern Vermont is stunning and I want the sunshine and warmth, the flowers and the song birds. I want to open the windows and let some fresh air into my house and I want to plant some pansies!
I don't know when winter will finally subside and let spring begin to bloom, but I can start getting ready for the approaching warm weather. A little spring cleaning and treating myself to a bouquet of fresh flowers will help leave the winter doldrums behind, and I'll dream up some wonderful recipes that are lighter, fresher and healthier like this recipe for pasta with salmon, peas, spring onions and fresh dill.
Pasta with salmon, peas, spring onions and fresh dill
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound campanelle or shell pasta
1 pound salmon filet
salt and pepper
1 3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic,minced
1 bunch scallions, chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1/2 cup low sodium chicken stock
4 tablespoons butter
2 cups frozen petit peas
Zest of one lemon
1/4 cup fresh dill, minced
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated
DIRECTIONS:
Cook pasta according to package directions and reserve one cup of the cooking water.
Brush salmon with some olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes or until just cooked through. Separate into large flakes.
Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, scallions, and white wine. Cook until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add stock, butter and peas. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until peas are just done about 3 minutes. Stir in lemon zest. Add the cooked pasta to the pan along with reserved cooking water and toss over heat to coat the pasta in sauce. Gently stir in salmon and dill. Sprinkle with grated parmigiano-reggiano and top off with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice if desired.
- By Katie Workman, The Associated Press
This lemon sauce is such a simple way to dress up roasted asparagus, the pinup vegetable of spring ... or any simply cooked asparagus for that matter, such as grilled, steamed or sautéed. In fact, this sauce is also a quick and easy way to dress up pretty much any plainly cooked vegetable, from potatoes to green beans to broccoli.
The sauce is vivid with citrus and a bit (not too much!) of hot sauce. The creaminess comes from creme fraiche, and sour cream or Greek yogurt could be substituted in if you like. You can make it ahead of time and store it in the fridge for a few days.
If you are using thicker asparagus, think about peeling the lower parts of the stalks, which results in a stalk that is tender from stem to stern. After trimming the bottom inch or so off the asparagus, simply take a vegetable peeler and peel off the green outer layer (which can be tough) from the bottom of the stalk, roughly 2-3 inches.
Lastly, if you would like to add a sprinkle of fresh herbs on top, anything from parsley to basil to chervil would be lovely. Another great option would be to drape a slice of prosciutto over each portion of dressed asparagus, which could also make a stylish appetizer.
Roasted asparagus with creamy lemon dressing
Serves 6 to 8
Start to finish: 25 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
Roasted asparagus:
2 pounds medium-thick asparagus
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lemon dressing:
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons creme fraiche, sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Sriracha, or to taste
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Trim the bottom 2 inches from the asparagus and, if desired, peel the lower 2 inches of the stalks. Place the asparagus in a shallow baking pan or rimmed baking sheet. Don't worry if the stalks overlap a bit. Drizzle the tablespoon of olive oil over them and toss gently to coat the asparagus evenly. Sprinkle on the salt and pepper, toss again and spread out in the pan.
Roast the asparagus for about 10 minutes, until just tender and slightly browned. Remember that they will continue to cook a bit after you remove them from the oven, so take them out while they're still a little firmer than you would like.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, zest, cr me fraiche and Sriracha until smooth. Slowly pour in the 1/3 cup olive oil, whisking all the while until the dressing is thick, then season with salt and pepper.
Let the asparagus cool slightly, and while still warm drizzle some of the lemon sauce over it. Serve right away with the rest of the sauce passed on the side for people to add if desired.
Nutrition information per serving: 157 calories; 123 calories from fat; 14 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 4 mg cholesterol; 154 mg sodium; 6 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 3 g protein.
Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, "Dinner Solved!" and "The Mom 100 Cookbook." She blogs at http://www.themom100.com/about-katie-workman
- By Robin Anish, Food columnist
As many probably are, I am biting at the bit to get into the garden, but the spring has been awfully cool and damp with most days shrouded in a ceiling of heavy, gray clouds an atmosphere that is not very motivating nor a very good environment for the vegetation.
I am fighting the temptation to buy vegetable and flower plants but, in reality, it is still too early to set out plants and they are much better off in warm greenhouses for now. So, I will wait a bit longer. Even when it comes to gardening, patience is a virtue!
On a positive note, my fall-planted garlic is about two feet tall and brilliantly green. Some of the perennial herbs are leafing out and the mint has grown enough that I can get a small harvest now.
Mint is a perennial herb and well worth growing, even for just the fresh minty perfume drifting in the air as you walk by it. The fragrance is both calming and uplifting. Mint is very productive and can take over the garden, so growing it in a pot is a good way to contain it.
There are many varieties of mint, but I find spearmint to be the most versatile. It makes a great tea when crushed and steeped in hot water to help settle an upset stomach. Mint is a must in lemonade, ice tea and cocktails think of the classic mint julep served icy cold on the day of the Kentucky Derby. It's spirited flavor compliments fruits, vegetables, salads and sweets. Who doesn't love peppermint patties!
When the stems grow nice and tall, I cut them and add them to floral arrangements. They are a beautiful and fragrant addition to a bouquet of flowers.
Like two peas in a pod, mint and peas go hand in hand when part of this flavorful spring potato salad.
Spring potato salad
INGREDIENTS:
2 pounds small red potatoes
3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
4 tablespoons safflower or canola oil (olive oil can be used but I find its flavor overpowers this particular salad combination)
1 cup cooked fresh baby peas or thawed frozen
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves finely sliced
2 or 3 scallions, finely sliced
DIRECTIONS:
Cover potatoes with cold salted water in a large saucepan, bring to a boil and then simmer, covered, until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, cool until able to handle and quarter or cut into cubes as desired.
Whisk together vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil until blended. Taste the dressing and adjust seasonings as desired. If too acidic for your taste, add a pinch or two of sugar or a little extra oil. If you prefer more tang, add a little extra vinegar or mustard. While potatoes are still a bit warm, combine with dressing, peas, mint and scallions and serve.
- By Sara Moulton , The Associated Press
Here's a salad fit to join the lineup for your fanciest dinner or holiday meal. Each of the ingredients brings its own unique taste and texture to the mix, but the standout is the praline. A hard candy typically consisting of sugar and nuts, praline was invented in the 17th century by the French (which is why it's pronounced "prah leen," not "pray line"). Here in America all these years later, there are two distinct versions of praline — the New Orleans version and the version made everywhere else. This recipe uses the non-New Orleans type.
At the heart of the praline is its caramel, which is nothing more or less than sugar cooked until it turns golden. The challenge is how to cook it. Typically, we're advised to combine sugar and water in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves. The process requires using a brush dipped in water to wash any sugar stuck to the sides of the pan into the mixture on the bottom. Doing so is meant to prevent the mixture from crystalizing and becoming cloudy and soft when you want it to end up clear and hard. My best efforts notwithstanding, I've found that the sugar often crystalizes anyway.
The Brits have figured out a better to make caramel (aka burnt sugar): put the sugar in a dry pan over medium heat until it melts, then continue cooking until it becomes golden. Simple and foolproof. If you're a caramel maker, or you want to be one, this is the best method for you.
As for the other ingredients, you're welcome to swap in different greens, dried fruits or cheeses. And if you're no fan of pecans, substitute walnuts, pistachios or even peanuts. Whatever the combo, the praline will put it over the top.
Arugula salad with spicy pecan praline, dried cranberries and aged gouda
Start to finish: 35 minutes
Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS:
For the praline:
1/2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste
1/4 cup sugar
For the dressing:
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
For the salad:
8 cups loosely packed arugula
3/4 cup coarsely grated aged gouda
1/2 cup dried cranberries
DIRECTIONS:
Make the praline: Lightly oil a baking sheet. In a small bowl toss the pecans with the salt and cayenne. Place the sugar in a heavy skillet or saucepan and cook over medium heat until the sugar starts to melt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sugar turns a golden caramel. Add the pecan mixture and, using a heatproof spatula or spoon, stir to combine well.
Carefully pour the pecan praline onto the sheet pan (the mixture will be very hot) and spread evenly with an oiled offset spatula. Let cool completely. Crack the praline into pieces and medium-chop it.
Make the dressing: In a bowl whisk together the mustard, vinegar and salt to taste, until the salt is dissolved. Add the oil in a stream, whisking, until all the oil is incorporated. Taste and add additional salt, if necessary, and black pepper to taste.
Make the salad: In a large bowl combine the arugula, gouda, cranberries and praline. Add the dressing and toss well.
Nutritional information per serving: 245 calories; 168 calories from fat; 19 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 14 mg cholesterol; 275 mg sodium; 17 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 15 g sugar; 5 g protein.
Sara Moulton is host of public television's "Sara's Weeknight Meals." She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows including "Cooking Live." Her latest cookbook is "HomeCooking 101."
- By Melissa d'Arabian, The Associated Press
We're not a huge radish-eating country here in the United States, and I think that's a mistake.
Radishes carry in their little bodies a tremendous variety of vitamins and minerals, so they're a smart addition to our five-a-day veggie eating, but the spicy flavor can keep many home cooks away.
In France, I learned to love radishes as common cocktail hour snack (or "aperitif"), eaten raw, smeared with a small glob of butter and a dash of salt. If that sounds a little crazy, I dare you to try it and tell me that the French are not the wisest radish-eating culture out there. Of course, falling in love with a veggie only when topped with creamy fatty butter isn't exactly a recipe for healthy eating, but it did get radishes on my radar, which led me to: roasting them.
If you haven't roasted radishes before, you are in for a surprise. The sharp flavor mellows into a sweet earthiness that is completely family-friendly. In fact, my four girls have love roasted radishes since they were toddlers, owing to the gorgeous shade of pink they turn in the oven. Radishes are delicious simply tossed in a little olive oil and salt and pepper, and then roasted until tender in a hot oven — about 20 minutes at 400 F. Or, add some minced garlic and dried herbs before cooking and then a squeeze of lemon before eating.
Today's recipe tops plain roasted radishes with a quick green goddess dressing made from Greek yogurt, lemon juice, dill and parsley. Drizzle the dressing over hot radishes and serve as a side dish, or let the radishes cool to use as finger food to dip in the gorgeous herbaceous sauce.
Roasted radishes with green goddess dressing
Servings: 6
Start to finish: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound radishes, about 15, cut in half, lengthwise
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Green Goddess Dressing:
1/2 cup low fat plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 cup chopped green onion
1/4 teaspoon minced fresh garlic (about 1/2 a clove)
1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh dill (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Place the halved radishes, olive oil and salt and pepper in a small bowl and stir to coat. Pour the radishes onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast until tender, about 20 minutes (no need to flip). Meanwhile, place all the dressing ingredients into a blender and blend just until mixed, but a few green flecks remain, about 20 seconds. (The recipe makes extra dressing.)
Serve the radishes warm or room temperature with about half of the sauce — either drizzled on top, or served in a small bowl as a dip.
Nutrition information per serving: 38 calories; 19 calories from fat; 2 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 1 mg cholesterol; 274 mg sodium; 4 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 1 g protein.
Food Network star Melissa d'Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, "Supermarket Healthy." Online: http://www.melissadarabian.net
- By America's Test Kitchen
You'd never know that pasta primavera, a pseudo-Italian dish that appears on virtually every chain restaurant menu, actually has roots in French haute cuisine.
The usual reproduction — a random jumble of produce tossed with noodles in a heavy, flavor-deadening cream sauce — tastes nothing like spring. Surprisingly, when we dug up the original recipe from New York's famed Le Cirque restaurant, our colleagues found it wasn't all that inspiring either, despite taking about 2 hours to prepare and dirtying five pans.
First, the vegetables (which had been painstakingly blanched one by one) were bland. Second, the cream-, butter- and cheese-enriched sauce dulled flavor and didn't really unify the dish.
If we wanted a true spring-vegetable pasta — with a few thoughtfully chosen vegetables and a light, but full-bodied sauce that clung well to the noodles and brought the dish together — we'd have to start from the beginning.
Spring vegetable pasta
Servings: 4-6
Start to finish: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS:
1 1/2 pounds leeks, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and washed thoroughly, plus 3 cups coarsely chopped dark green parts, washed thoroughly
1 pound asparagus, tough ends trimmed, chopped coarse, and reserved; spears cut on bias into 1/2 inch lengths
2 cups frozen peas, thawed
4 cups vegetable broth
1 cup water
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
plus 2 tablespoons juice
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound campanelle (farfalle and penne are acceptable substitutes)
1 cup dry white wine
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (1/2 cup), plus extra for serving
DIRECTIONS:
Bring leek greens, asparagus trimmings, 1 cup peas, broth, water, and half of garlic to boil in large saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 10 minutes. While broth simmers, combine mint, chives, and lemon zest in bowl; set aside.
Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into 8 cup liquid measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible (you should have 5 cups broth; add water as needed to equal 5 cups). Discard solids and return broth to saucepan. Cover and keep warm.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add leeks and pinch salt and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until leeks begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus spears and cook until asparagus is crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add pepper flakes and remaining garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add remaining 1 cup peas and continue to cook for 1 minute longer. Transfer vegetables to bowl and set aside. Wipe out pot with paper towels.
Heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add pasta and cook, stirring often, until just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 2 minutes.
When wine is fully absorbed, add warm broth and bring to boil. Cook, stirring frequently, until most of liquid is absorbed and pasta is al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in Parmesan, lemon juice, vegetables, and half of herb mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately, passing extra Parmesan and remaining herb mixture separately.
Nutrition information per serving: 605 calories; 155 calories from fat; 17 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 4 mg cholesterol; 436 mg sodium; 88 g carbohydrate; 10 g fiber; 13 g sugar; 18 g protein.
For more recipes, cooking tips and ingredient and product reviews, visit https://www.americastestkitchen.com . Find more recipes like Spring Vegetable Pasta in "Revolutionary Recipes."
- By Robin Anish, Eagle correspondent
A mantra "it will come," "it will come" "it will come."
Repeat over and over again, and it will help maintain your sanity until Mother Nature stops teasing us with only occasional snippets of spring like weather.
I am going to think like a kid and be happy to take each day as it comes and remember that it will come spring will come!
Fresh asparagus or spring peas, along with buttered red potatoes, are perfect compliments to this savory meatloaf made with ground turkey and sweetened with an orange apricot glaze.
Turkey and apricot meatloaf
INGREDIENTS:
1/3 cup orange juice, preferably fresh squeezed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 cup finely chopped dried apricots
2 pounds ground turkey
3/4 cup plain bread crumbs
1 small onion finely chopped
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
8 slices bacon
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Puree orange juice, soy sauce and 1/4 cup apricots in a food processor until smooth.
Mix together turkey, remaining 3/4 cup apricots, onions, bread crumbs, seasonings and egg. Shape into a loaf in a 13 by 9 inch baking dish. Lay bacon strips over the top and spread the apricot puree over the top.
Bake the meatloaf until internal temperature reaches 165 degrees on a meat thermometer. Keep in mind that when using ground turkey cooking to this temperature is essential. This should take about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Let the loaf rest 15 minutes before slicing and serving.
By the way, as I've finished this column, the snow has stopped and the sun is peaking out. I do believe it will come! Spring will come!
- By Robert Luhmann, Eagle correspondent
One of the great delights of this time of year in the Berkshires and Southern Vermont is the appearance of ramps. These wild onions, with a flavor that could broadly be described as somewhere between garlic and onion, are free for the taking for those willing to seek them out.
There's a multitude of culinary uses for them. The bulbs can be pickled and the greens made into pesto or a compound butter. The whole plant can be sautéed and added to an omelet, to a potato or pasta dish or in a soup, as a few suggestions. They can be used in any dish that calls for leeks, wild leeks being another name by which they are known. They do, however, have a stronger flavor than leeks, so adjust accordingly for those sensitive to onion or garlic. Happily, I have no such sensitivity, so I use them by the handful!
Ramps are a member of the Allium genus, which includes onion, garlic, shallot and the like. The botanical name for ramps is Allium tricoccum for the three seeds they produce. They can be harvested for about a month each season and their culinary use date back to harvests by North American indigenous peoples. Ramps' popularity has grown substantially over the years with well-established festivals, mostly in the southern Appalachians, celebrating their appearance. Their popularity is such that sustainability has become an issue in those areas.
As good luck would have it, they appear in our surrounding woods, overlapping for a time with fiddlehead ferns and morel mushrooms. I consider myself an amateur, but enthusiastic, forager, who has recently semi-retired, allowing more time for tramping around in the woods.
I was lucky enough this season to include all three in a meal recently. I made a ramp vichyssoise as a starter. I included the fiddleheads in a salad with prosciutto, grape tomatoes, cucumber and basil, with a dusting of Parmigiana Reggiano. I followed this with a pureed baby bella mushroom soup garnished with sauteed sliced morels. Dessert was all store-bought. I had found some decent strawberries with which I made a crisp topped with our wonderful local Aylada honey lavender frozen yogurt. It was a fun and satisfying meal with the lovely, Lois, and good friends who were with me on most of my foraging expeditions.
The ramps I've found have been in dampish wooded areas close to water. They grow in large clumps and I've taken a couple of pounds from two different areas this year. In both instances, it was difficult to tell I had taken any at all. That will probably be the end of my ramp harvest this year, what with the somewhat laborious cleaning process and not wanting to harvest so much that I waste them. They're a special found food during a special (however wet!) time of renewal!
RAMP VICHYSSOISE
Serves 6 as a starter
INGREDIENTS:
3 slices thick cut bacon, diced
2 tablespoons butter
4 cups chopped ramps, bulb and greens included
3 cups diced, peeled Yukon Gold potatoes
6 cups chicken stock
Cr me fraiche and chopped chives to garnish
Salt and pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Over medium heat, sauté the bacon in the butter until crisp in your favorite soup pot. Add the chopped ramps and continue to sauté until the bulbs become translucent. Add the potatoes and chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer for approximately 8 to 10 minutes until the potatoes are soft enough to puree. Puree soup and chill completely. Adjust salt and pepper and serve in wide bowls garnished with a spoonful of creme fraiche and chopped chives.
- By Robert Luhmann, Eagle Correspondent
"If I told you, I'd have to kill you!" is a common tongue-in-cheek answer that a successful morel mushroom forager will give you if you ask where they found their harvest of these delicious, elusive fungi in the Berkshire woods. Or, as the expression goes, "Morels are everywhere and impossible to find."
May is morel season in the Berkshires and I'm a very amateur morel forager. I've found the activity of foraging not unlike fishing; it allows me to let go of any cares or stress I may be holding, while forcing me to be present in the beauty of outdoors. Of course, it's much better if you're successful in either activity; fishing becomes catching and foraging becomes gathering. For years, except for an occasional morel or two, I hadn't moved beyond foraging to gathering.
My luck changed a couple of years ago, when the wife of a very good friend, with whom I hike and forage, called me excitedly and said they'd discovered a patch of morels on their neighbor's front yard. I raced over to my friends' home and was astonished at their discovery. As I said, I'd spent years in the woods foraging for morels, mostly casually, but sometimes intently, with little success. Here were dozens sprouting up on a section of their neighbor's front yard! But, how to ethically gather them from someone else's land? As always, lust helps provide answers to ethical quandaries.
Their neighbor's house is used exclusively as a rental property by members of the Boston Symphony Orchestra for the Tanglewood season beginning in June. The grass was relatively high on the lawn and we knew that the morels would be shredded as soon as the lawn service came. Besides, they couldn't possibly know of such riches on a corner of their lawn, which was all but on my friends' land, if not for an arbitrary line drawn by an unknown surveyor decades previously. We decided among ourselves it would be unconscionable to allow those precious gems to be mowed down. It was our moral (morel?) duty to harvest as many as we could.
We were like kids allowed to grab candy in a candy store for free. It took us minutes to gleefully clear that section of lawn of morels. As it happened, hours after we cut the main harvest from that spot, their neighbor's lawn service did come to mow. So, not only were we able to gather dozens of the delicious fungi, our triumph was amplified by narrowly averting disaster. Because of this victory, I've added another heroic tale to recount and embellish for the next generations, some of whom actually care. I'd reveal the names of my friends, but that could reveal where our morels might be found this year and we're not prepared to continually guard the spot for the season.
My foraging friend and I have since found another spot rich with morels in a wooded area, where they are more commonly found, which more than doubled our bounty last year. Since my knowledge of morel foraging is pretty much limited to being able to identify a true morel and the ash trees under which they typically sprout in the Berkshires, I'll leave the education of morel foraging to a thorough Google and YouTube search or to someone who is truly knowledgeable, such as John Wheeler at the Berkshire Mycological Society.
Just as it is with fishing, as much as I enjoy the activity of foraging, the part I like best is the eating part. Morels have a unique earthy, meaty flavor that is as hard to describe as the flavor of truffles. Their season is weeks long and they have not been successfully cultivated as a cash crop in the U.S., which makes them a pricey treat in the markets. Fresh morels in season can often be found at Guido's Fresh Marketplace if you're unwilling to potentially face years of foraging failure as I did. Rehydrated dried morels don't have the meaty texture and are not quite as nuanced, but are stronger flavored and can, of course, be bought year-round. I can tell you with certainty they taste better when you've gathered them yourself.
My cooking style often tends to the Italian, using excellent ingredients in season consciously and simply. This recipe is an example.
MORELS WITH TAGLIATELLE, CREME FRAICHE AND CHIVES
When using an ingredient as precious as fresh morels for pasta, I make homemade pasta. I've been a big fan of Marcella Hazan since I attended her cooking demonstration of homemade pasta at Boston University in the late 1980s. I suggest watching her son, Giuliano, in a series of YouTube videos on homemade pasta before making it. I find them excellent for beginner or advanced homemade pasta makers alike. Think of Giuliano as an easy-going Moses presenting the commandments of homemade pasta from our lord, Marcella, who spread so much joy in her life, but did not suffer fools well.
A pretty obvious unwritten commandment is thou shalt not freeze fresh pasta. I witnessed some poor woman, who is probably still scarred 30 years later, ask that oxymoronic question of Marcella, who looked at her as if she were a cockroach that had somehow found its way into her immaculate kitchen and verbally disposed of her as if she were such.
Using a high-quality dried fettuccine is not a sin, so it is written.
Yield: 4 primi or 2 secondi portions
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 pound homemade tagliatelle (2-egg pasta recipe)
2 ounces butter
1 large shallot sliced (1/2 cup)
3/4 cup dry white wine
Morel mushrooms, sliced (2 cups fresh, 1 cup reconstituted dried)
One 8-ounce container creme fraiche
1 cup sliced chives (reserve a few for garnish)
DIRECTIONS:
Put 2 quarts of salted water on to boil. In a 12-inch skillet, saute the shallots in the butter over medium heat until soft. Add white wine and reduce to almost a glaze. If using dried morels, add water in which they have been reconstituted, avoiding any grit that may be at the bottom, to the wine. Add morels and creme fraiche and cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring while maintaining a medium heat. Cook tagliatelle in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, depending on thickness. Cook pasta slightly less than al dente as the pasta will cook further in the sauce. Drain pasta, reserving a cup of pasta water, if needed to adjust the sauce to a proper consistency. Add pasta and sliced chives to the sauce and cook approximately 30 seconds to 1 minute longer. Add reserved pasta water, if needed. Almost all the sauce should be absorbed by the pasta. Finish with salt (I love Maldon salt!) and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve in shallow bowls garnished with reserved chives.
- By Alison Ladman, The Associated Press
Soup can be an unusual choice for a spring dinner. We're supposed to be celebrating light, bright flavors and a return of fresh produce. Heavy and hearty are out of place.
Except that spring soups can be bright, light and a delicious blend of fresh — rather than long-simmered — flavors. Looking for an accompaniment to the traditional flavors of Easter dinner, we created this rich, creamy chilled soup that is simple and refreshing. It blends blanched peas, cucumber and avocados with mint and basil for a rush of beautiful green flavors.
This soup and pesto are easily prepared up to a day ahead, then refrigerated. Let warm slightly to room temperature before serving.
Chilled cucumber, avocado and pea soup with mint pesto
Start to finish: 15 minutes
Servings: 6
Ingredients:
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves
1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves
6 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 teaspoon lime juice
1 cup fresh or frozen peas
2 avocados, pitted and peeled
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1/4 cup sour cream or plain Greek yogurt
Directions:
To make the pesto, in a food processor combine the mint, basil and olive oil. Process until smooth, then season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lime juice, then set aside.
In a small saucepan, heat 1/2 inch of water. Once the water is simmering, add the peas and cook until tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Drain the peas and cool completely.
Shortly before serving, in a blender combine the avocados, cucumber, peas and buttermilk. Process until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the soup into serving bowls and drizzle with the pesto. Top each with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.
Nutrition information per serving: 300 calories; 220 calories from fat (73 percent of total calories); 25 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 5 mg cholesterol; 15 g carbohydrate; 7 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 7 g protein; 250 mg sodium.
- By Jim Romanoff, Associated Press
For the dedicated kitchen gardener, winter can be a tough period limited to leafing through seed catalogs and stretching the remnants of whatever was canned or frozen from last season's harvest.
Then comes springtime. In some gardens the first crop of peas are planted as early as St. Patrick's Day and harvested before the summer heat begins. And then there's that mint, which no matter how rough a winter it's been seems to be the first herb that bounces back.
In this spirit we've created this recipe for fusilli with tomatoes, peas, garlic, feta and mint. Not ready to garden? Frozen peas work just fine.
FUSILLI WITH TOMATOES,
PEAS, GARLIC, FETA AND MINT
Start to finish: 25 minutes
Servings: 4
12 ounces regular or whole-grain fusilli pasta
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
28-ounce can diced tomatoes
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup baby peas, fresh or frozen
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions, then drain well. Return the pasta to the pot and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Set aside.
Meanwhile, drain the tomatoes, reserving 1/3 cup of the juice. Set both aside.
In a large skillet over medium-low, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, but not browned, about 1 minute.
Add the peas, capers and the tomatoes and reserved juice. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is simmering, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the mint, then season with salt and pepper.
Serve the pasta with the sauce spooned over the top and sprinkled with feta.
Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 480 calories; 107 calories from fat (22 percent of total calories); 12 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 11 mg cholesterol; 78 g carbohydrate; 16 g protein; 9 g fiber; 732 mg sodium.
- By Robin Anish, Food writer
Welcome May — my favorite month of the year! It is showering and dreary as I'm composing my column, but May is a gentle month when rain is greeted in anticipation of the flowers and foliage it brings forth soon to be followed by the butterflies and busy bees. The sunshine and warmth of May is like no other — perfect! The air is fresh and there is an ethereal pastel glow as the young leaves on the trees emerge — yes, perfect! May awakens my senses, restores my energy and revives my spirit — perfectly!
May is also the beginning of a season of food and festivities. This week alone we can celebrate Cinco de Mayo on the 5th, for those who should know, a reminder that it is mom's birthday on the 6th — hint, hint! — the Kentucky Derby on the 7th and Mother's Day on the 8th.
Keep the celebrations going with an occasion every day of the month. Check out foodimentary.com, a fun website that lists celebrations for every day of every month of the year. My favorites are the National Liver & Onions day on the 10th, National "Eat What You Want Day" on the 11th; National Fruit Cocktail Day on the 13th, and National Grape Popsicle Day on the 27th. May is National Egg, Hamburger and BBQ month while the 3rd week in May is American Craft Brew Week and the 20th is National Pick Strawberries Day.
Here's a favorite dessert perfect for any day in May.
No-Bake Lady Finger Torte
Ingredients:
20 oz can crushed, pineapple packed in juice
1/3 cup sugar
3 Tbs cornstarch
12 oz cream cheese
3/4 cups sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 pint heavy cream
3 pkgs lady fingers
Directions:
Mix pineapple, sugar, cornstarch and cook over medium heat until thickened. Cool completely.
Separate lady fingers. In a 9-inch springform pan, line the bottom then sides with lady fingers. Beat cream cheese with sugar and vanilla. Whip cream and fold into cream cheese mixture. Spread 1/3 of pineapple on lady fingers then half the cream mixture on top; put another layer of lady fingers; repeat pineapple and cream layers then top with any remaining lady fingers, then top with remaining pineapple. Chill several hours or overnight before releasing sides of pan. Before serving, pipe extra whipped cream around the edges, allowing pineapple to show and garnish as desired. Mint is always a nice way to top it off.
Any fruit filling can be substituted for the pineapple. Fold lemon zest into the cream filling, replace pineapple with lemon curd, add a sprinkling of chopped pistachios to garnish — my favorite version of this torte.
Robin Anish is a former caterer who lives in Lenox, where she continues to cater to her enthusiasm for cooking. She can be contacted via The Berkshire Eagle at 75 South Church St., Pittsfield MA 01201.