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A Good Appetite

Lessons learned from our five-year love affair with the Instant Pot

  • 4 min to read
Instant Pot Wisdom, Half a Decade Later

This pork stew with red wine and olives is an example of the Instant Pot's strength as a kitchen tool: cooking down tough meats quickly until tender. 

When I first wrote about Instant Pots back in 2017, it was with the ardor of new love. I had fallen hard for my first electric pressure cooker, delighting in the myriad ways it could improve my kitchen life. All those weeknight meals of dried beans and silky braised meats, the speedy brown rice, the endless flow of soups and homemade stock changed how I cooked in a fundamental way.

The question was, would the habit stick? Or would my Instant Pot end up like so many panini presses and sous vide wands — on a shelf in the basement, fuzzy with dust?

I’m happy to report that, nearly five years in, it has remained an integrated and well-used kitchen tool. After hundreds of meals, I have learned a few very valuable lessons, whether getting the smell out of the sealing ring or troubleshooting the dreaded burn message.

Here are my best practices and tips for getting the most out of your Instant Pot:

Play to its strengths

The most important thing I have learned is to stick to what the Instant Pot does well. Any dish that traditionally needs long, slow cooking in a moist environment will turn soft and succulent a lot faster in an electric pressure cooker.

Chickpea stew in white bowls

Instant Pot tomato-braised chickpeas with tahini showcases the magic of cooking beans in your pressure cooker. 

Tough cuts of meat become incomparably tender and silky. Pork shoulder — stewed with wine, herbs, root vegetables and olives or capers for brightness — becomes a staple as soon as the weather turns cool. I especially love the Instant Pot for making chickpeas from scratch, which taste about a million times better than canned. And I haven’t made risotto or rice pudding on the stove since taking the Instant Pot out of its box. Why mess with perfection?

Lock that lid

It’s bound to happen at some point: You have filled your Instant Pot, set the pressure to high, then opened the lid to find dinner only half cooked. What went wrong?

Broken seal of Instant Pot

A sealing ring that's slightly askew on an Instant Pot will make your cooking time take longer. 

The sealing ring may be slightly askew. Before cooking, make sure the ring is pressed down all the way around the inside cover of the pot. Then after the machine starts counting down, check that the pressure indicator at the top is firmly in its locked position (I poke it with a chopstick).

Avoid the dreaded ‘Burn’

Your electric pressure cooker can’t tell the difference between the tasty, caramelized bits that stick to the pot after you brown your ingredients (sometimes known as the fond) and food that is smoldering to a crisp. And that is a common reason the burn message appears.

If you have seared your ingredients using the sauté function, add some liquid to the pot, bring it to a simmer, then scrape up all those browned bits thoroughly before locking the lid.

It’s also important to use enough liquid, at least a half cup, even if the recipe doesn’t direct you to. Older Instant Pot recipes, my own included, might have been tested on earlier models of the appliance, which had a less sensitive burn sensor. These recipes might not call for that much liquid because the old models didn’t need it.

If the burn message does come on midway through cooking, don’t panic. Simply release the pressure, open the pot and give everything a big stir, scraping up anything stuck to the bottom. If the pot looks dry, add a few tablespoons water or other liquid. Then reseal the pot and continue cooking.

Salt your beans

Cooking dried beans from scratch on any given weeknight is a triumph of the electric pressure cooker. To get the best flavor, add salt at the beginning. Cooking beans in salted water helps flavor them evenly.

Mind your temperatures

The colder the ingredients are when they go into your pot, the longer it will take to reach pressure. (Say, for example, you are using a block of frozen broth dumped in from a quart container, my mainstay.) Defrosting liquids in the microwave can speed things up. Or if you are adding water and have an electric kettle, you can heat the water while prepping your other ingredients.

Clean that smelly seal

The easiest way I have found to get rid of that lingering, slightly sulfurous scent that clings to the sealing ring is making a paste made from baking soda and white vinegar. Spread it all over the ring, and let it sit in the sink for an hour or so (or overnight for really tough cases). Then throw the whole thing into your dishwasher. I do this along with all my other dishes, and everything comes out sparkling.


INSTANT POT PORK STEW WITH RED WINE AND ONIONS

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 1 1/2 hours

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds pork shoulder or pork stew meat, cut into 2-inch chunks

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal), plus more as needed

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

6 garlic cloves, grated, passed through a press or crushed into a paste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

Large pinch of red-pepper flakes

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

Olive oil

1/2 cup dry red wine

1 (15-ounce) can whole peeled plum tomatoes

2 medium carrots, sliced 1/2-inch thick (about 1 cup)

1/2 cup pitted and torn green olives, such as Castelvetrano

Chopped parsley or basil, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Season the pork all over with the salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine the pork, garlic, rosemary, sage and red-pepper flakes.

In a small dry skillet, toast the coriander seeds until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and coarsely crush (or do this on a cutting board with the side of a heavy knife). Add crushed seeds to the pork and toss well. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Set the pressure cooker to the sauté function on medium. Add 1 tablespoon oil and let it get hot for a few seconds, then add enough pork chunks to fit comfortably in one layer with a little space around each piece. Let brown for 2 to 3 minutes per side, then transfer the cubes to a plate. Add a little more oil if the pot looks dry and continue browning the rest of the pork.

Add the wine to the pot and let simmer, scraping the browned bits from the bottom, until it reduces by half, about 2 minutes. Using kitchen shears or your hands, break the tomatoes into pieces and add them, along with their liquid, to the pot. Return pork to the pot, stir in carrots and 1/2 cup water.

Seal the pot and cook on high pressure for 45 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer pork to a serving platter. Use a fat separator to separate the fat from the juices, or just spoon the fat off the top. (There may be a lot of fat.) If the sauce seems thin, use the sauté function to simmer it until it thickens. Stir in olives, then taste the sauce and add more salt, if you like.

Spoon the sauce over the pork, then top with chopped parsley or basil and serve.

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