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In New England, there are two ways to make a lobster roll; the right way and the wrong way. 

Lobster rolls are part of a larger debate at the center of most of David Page's new book, "Food Americana: The Remarkable People and Incredible Stories behind America’s Favorite Dishes," about regional cuisine and its national availability. (Lobster rolls, he writes in the book, gained national attention in 1997 when they were "discovered" on chef Rebecca Charles' menu at the Pearl Oyster Bar in New York's Greenwich Village.)

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PITTSFIELD — For the second time in two years, the firm that owns Berkshire Gas Co. has gone outside the company to appoint a new president an…